Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2018 11

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day	notes	hours
3	Remove upper cowl and stand it beside aft fuselage. Find a couple of offcuts of aluminium sheet that can be used to make a jig for aligning the lower cowl. This will be needed after I enlarge the central hole to clear the propshaft, rather than fitting closely against it as at present. The 2 strips are quite thin and floppy but if laminated would be stiffer. The assembly could be located on the studs holding the vacuum pump drive cover. Line up the 2 strips and drill 4mm holes in them at intervals for pop rivets. Deburr the holes and rivet the strip together. Smooth the edge at the ends for a wider contact area against the top edges of the lower cowl. Start to mark the stud positions then realise the cowl is not properly positioned. Loosen the fixing screws slightly and use a short length of rope around the prop driver to pull the cowl up snugly against it. Mark the stud positions on the aluminium by painting the ends of the studs and pressing the aluminium against them. Drill the holes out in stages - 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, checking each time for alignment with the studs, before finally drilling out to 6mm. Check the fit and fettle slightly with a round file to get the assembly sliding easily onto the studs. Remove lower cowl and park it on top of the aft fuselage. Check baffle positions and clearances. On the starboard rear baffle, enlarge slightly the semi-circular cutout to clear the engine mount better. On the aft baffle starboard flange, make a semi-circular cutout to clear the earth wire to the starter body. Put the aft baffle in place, holding in position with temporary screws dropped into all the fixing holes. Put the bracket with the starter solenoid etc in position temporarily to help decide where the starter wire will run through the aft baffle. If I can find a suitable insulated bush, the wire can follow its original path, so mark a spot on the baffle where the bush could be fitted. (If I can't find a commercial item, I suppose I could turn up something from SRBP or similar.) Offer up, and mark the starboard rear baffle to clear the flange of the aft baffle, and the earth wire. Drill corners of cutout 10mm for radius and make cuts with hand nibbler. Check fit and fettle edges. Mark hole positions on starboard rear baffle for fixing to top of footwell. Drill those holes 3/16" and deburr. Place baffle on footwell and mark hole positions. Drill 3/16". Put baffle in place with temporary screws in holes. Check fit of starboard forward baffle - all seems OK. Offer up port rear baffle, check and mark where it needs to be relieved to clear flange of aft baffle. Drill 10mm at corner of cutout and remove waste with hand nibbler. Check fit and fettle with files until satisfactory. Mark position of fixing holes, drill them 3/16" and deburr. Put baffle in place and drill through the holes in it into the top of the footwell. Drop temporary screws into those fixing holes and mark up through the anchor nut for the alternator clamp onto the bottom of the baffle. Remove the baffle and drill that hole 5.5mm. Check fit and all is fine. Check fit of port forward baffle - seems OK. Start to look at position of oil tank bracket on starboard footwell but the top flange of the tank fouls the face of the footwell unless the flange is positioned higher. It would also need to be at least partly above the baffle. Neither of the 2 sets of installation pictures I have correspond exactly to my setup. Need to stop and think more about it, and check the recommended height for the tank. Print out the relevant page (76) of the Rotax installation manual.	2986.0
5	Print out the pages of the Europa manual relevant to the oil tank and hoses. Compare the oil tank locations in the 2 available photographs of other installations. The flange is certainly quite well above the top of the footwell. Start to think about oil hose runs and look for the adaptors that fit the oil tank connexions. I thought it might be the ones in box 20 but eventually realise they were for the oil cooler (and the straight ones are already fitted to the cooler, leaving one redundant HEF93-8 elbow in box 20). Finally find the correct adaptors (both 90 degree elbows) in the small box of Rotax bits that came with the engine. Offer up oil tank with adaptors fitted hand-tight and the flange has definitely got to be above the top of the footwell and the starboard rear baffle. The semi-circular cutout in that baffle needs to be trimmed back to allow the tank to snug up to its mounting bracket. Mark with felt-tip pen the area that needs to be relieved. Work on it with triangular scraper and large half-round file. Deburr edges and put baffle back in place with temporary screws. Offer up tank and bracket again. Still more needs to be removed from baffle, so take it off and work some more on it. Try again for fit of tank and that is probably OK now. However, with tank low enough to fit clamps on bottom of bracket, the tank flange is fouling the inboard side of the baffle, where it rises to meet the starboard front baffle. Both baffles will need to be relieved in that area, and also hole will need to be made for the hoses. Much more thought and dummy assembly needed before final decisions. Safety-wire the tank drain plug, just in case I forget to do it later!	2988.3
6	Open garage front door and shift toolboxes etc out of the way for better access to the engine area. Consider where hoses might run. Immediately notice that port rear baffle will need to be cut away to clear C04 water hose. It might be best to check all hose runs with the oil cooler and water radiator in place. Get out the cooling duct and try to remember what sequence of assembly is required. It looks like the oil cooler should be fitted first to the duct, then the duct attached to the tunnel and finally the water radiator attached to the duct - but that needs to be proven! Actually, the holes in the duct might provide enough guidance for now without the heat exchangers fitted. Offer up oil tank and bracket; adjust lateral position until at both sides it is equally clear of the corresponding semi-circular cutout on the starboard rear baffle. Mark 3 bracket hole positions onto firewall. Drill the outboard holes 3/16" and locate the bracket with AN525-10R10 screws placed in those holes. Drill lower inboard hole through bracket hole and put a screw in there too. Offer up the spacer I made earlier for the upper inboard location - it is too long as the hole will now fall on the curve of the footwell recess. File the spacer at an angle; check length and angle at intervals until satisfied with the fit against the footwell. Place in position and drill through it #12 with Tight-Fit drill kit (needed because cylinder head in line with hole). Fit AN525-10R30 screw and it is now too long, with a short length of plain shank visible inside. However, as I will now need to make an angled spacer for the inside face, it can be made the right length for the screw to grip. Fit AN970-3 washers and temporary plain nuts to the 3 screws on the flat surface. Fit tank to bracket with the huge Jubilee clips, with (angled) inlet at forward side and aligned to port. Offer up starboard rear baffle and check where it needs to be relieved to clear tank flange. Cut away a notch with the hand nibbler and smooth the shape with a coarse half-round file. Re-check and fettle more until satisfied. Likewise trim a little off the outboard side of the baffle to clear the tank flange. Fit elbow to tank inlet and try to work out how to orient it and how the hose will run to it from the banjo fitting under the crankcase. Settle on a route between the water hoses under the starboard cylinders, and behind the engine mount (to keep it away from the #3 cylinder exhaust pipe). Initially it looked quite neat to have the elbow underneath the baffle, but that would leave the hose rather close to the hottest point of the #3 exhaust pipe. Better to have the elbow above the baffle, although that will mean making a hole through it for the hose, and making sure the edge of the baffle will not contact the hose. Take the baffle out of the way, lubricate the hose end and slide it onto the elbow. Looking at the other end, there should be enough room and hose length to leave the banjo pointing forward as-is and make a loop in the hose. Mark the hose where it could be cut to achieve that. Take it out and measure the length - just slightly longer than the 61cm called out in the manual. That seems fine, so cut it off at the mark. Put the duct in place in the tunnel and fit the bolts finger-tight. Direct the water hose from the pump into the starboard hole in the duct for the water radiator. Offer up the oil cooler with its spacers to check the length of the hose barbs relative to the holes in the duct. The fittings do protrude a little way above the duct surface, and the hose can come into the duct by about 30mm to butt against the hex nut. Push the C06 angled hose in from the oil pump area and snag the end of it with an aluminium wire hook to get it into the port-side duct hole. However, manipulating the hose into the position it should occupy on the barb causes it to press against one of the engine mount cross-members. Try re-routing it above that tube and that is not successful - the bend required looks rather sharp, so put it back where it was. Mark the end where it should be cut, but don't cut it yet. Fit remaining length of straight hose to the other elbow on the tank outlet and check how it will go down to the starboard side of the oil cooler. With the first hose replaced in position, there is still plenty of room and it is an easy almost straight run to the oil cooler position. Mark the bottom end of the hose for cutting. Take it out and measure it - only 55cm vs 70cm in the manual, so don't cut it yet just in case! Offer up the starboard rear baffle to check how it needs to be relieved to clear the oil hoses. Mark and cut away with hand nibbler what looks like the required area. Check clearance, file off more, re-check until satisfied. The hoses can be tied to the engine mount to make sure they don't move around and touch the edge of the baffle. Remove port rear baffle and slide C04 water hose down into place, teasing the bottom end into the duct hole. Offer up baffle and mark where material to be removed. Clamp it down and cut out the required semi-circle with the power nibbler attachment on the cordless drill. Smooth edge with a half-round file and try the fit - perfect first time! Offer up the starboard front baffle and mark where it needs to be relieved to clear the tank inlet elbow. Chop the shape out roughly with the hand nibbler and smooth with a half-round file. Offer up, needs more work, file and try again. Now looks good.	2993.1
7	Have a quick look at what I've got in stock in the way of SRBP/SRBF dowel for making an insulated bush in the aft baffle. The only piece I can find is 1" diameter, which would leave very little meat for a flange and a thread once the centre was drilled out to clear the crimped end of the starter wire. Of course it might be that I'll have to make up another wire anyway so in that case could have a smaller hole just to fit the wire itself, and I might get away with threading it 3/4" x 16 (AN12). Another possibility is to turn up something from a piece of thick sheet. Have a poke around on eBay and find a seller offering offcuts of Tufnol rod so order a piece of 40mm dia x 100mm long. Will now have to think about what thread to put on it.
10	Tufnol Carp rod delivered. Consider what size nut could be easily obtained; AN924-12D initially seems promising but can't find a die for that size (1.0625" x 12TPI). AN924-10D (0.8750" x 14TPI) might be big enough and Tracy Tools do a die at a reasonable price. Thinking again, it might be necessary to threadcut it on the lathe anyway, even to get the die started. Start to draw up the shape of the insulating bush in CADintosh.
12	With the shape of the insulating bush drawn in CADintosh, check the wall thickness that will remain around the 14mm bore when the spigot is threaded 0.8750" x 14TPI. It will be around 3mm, which seems quite thin for Tufnol. It would be better to go for the 1.0625" x 12TPI thread and just threadcut it (since I can't find a die of that size). The nearest pitch I could get on the Cowells 90 lathe would be 11.90625 with a 64 tooth driver and 30 tooth driven gear; that would no doubt be satisfactory for the relatively thin AN924-12D nut. Order a AN924-12D nut from LAS Aerospace, plus a couple of other items to make up the minimum order value.
13	One end of the 40mm Tufnol rod is quite square, so hacksaw off about 30mm from that end. Set the square end in the lathe, using the outside jaws. Face off square to about 27mm length. Drill through 3mm, 5mm, 6.5mm (largest bit that the tailstock chuck will take). Find a small, long boring bar and bore out by about 1mm feed on the cross-slide. Bore now accepts 8mm drill shank but not 8.5mm. Cutting for another 0.25mm of feed allows the 8.5mm bit to slide in nicely. Remaining feed to achieve 14mm bore is (14 - 8.5) / 2 = 2.75mm. After another 1mm of feed, a 10.5mm drill bit fits. After a further 1mm of feed, a 12.5mm drill bit fits. Keep boring and checking with the prepared starter cable until both ends of it pass through the bore. Needs slightly more than the expected 14mm because of the cranked shape of the eye. Turn down about 17mm length of the outer end to 27mm, checking every mm of cross-slide feed and taking small cuts as the size approaches. Start to set up a 60 degree insert turning tool for threadcutting and immediately realise it is much too wide and will foul the shoulder of the workpiece. No other toolbits in stock will do, so find a 1/8" diameter piece of tool steel (probably intended for a boring bar) that I could grind to suit. I don't have a suitable tool holder so look around for something I can make one from. Find a length of 15mm x 38mm mild steel and cut off a piece about 15mm. Square up the hacksawed face on the mill.	2996.7
14	AN924-12D nut & AN3-3A bolts delivered from LAS Aerospace. Turn tool holder workpiece over and mill other (already quite square) sawn face flat and true. Find a M4 socket-head screw of a suitable length for clamping. Hold the workpiece on the cross-slide and drill it through from the headstock with centre drill, 3mm and 1/8" drills. Mark orientation. Turn it on its side and cut a slot into the hole with the slitting saw. Centre-pop for the clamping screw hole, centre-drill and drill through 3.3mm on the bench drill. Tap M4 then open up top half of hole (above the slit) to 4mm. Fit screw and washer and check that the 1/8" tool bit can be securely clamped. With the bit held in the holder, grind it to 60 degree point with a slight relief angle then grind off upper half to form cutting edge. Clamp the holder with bit to the topslide to check clearances from chuck jaws. Take off the leadscrew fine feed changewheels and start to set up for 12 TPI feed. Fit 64T wheel on headstock and 30T wheel on leadscrew. Will need 2 same-size idlers to bridge the gap between those 2 gearwheels.	2999.0
15	After some fiddling to get the engagement right, set up the idlers (2 off 32T) between the 64T and 30T gearwheels and start cutting the thread. After some cuts realise the tool is moving in its holder so tighten up the capscrew a bit more. Thinking again, I should have extended the slit beyond the hole for better clamping action. Increase depth of cut until nut fits. It will not run right up to the shoulder, but will tighten up enough to grip the aluminium sheet. The nut seems to bind on the Tufnol thread and the boss needs to be gripped very firmly to release the nut. To give better purchase for that, put the workpiece on the mill table and mill flats on opposing sides to provide a spanner grip. Notice that I have now passed the 3000-hour mark in this building project.	3000.5
16	Change leading digit on garage hourmeter from 2 to 3. Remove aft baffle and re-check position for insulating bush. Needs to be slightly more inboard to clear an engine mount member. Mark and centre-pop new spot. Drill 1/8", and holesaw 25mm. Enlarge with taper reamer to about 27mm to fit bush. Deburr edges. Fit bush and nut, securing nut with a few drops of Loctite 243. Connect cable finger-tight to starter and thread through bush in baffle. Slide baffle into position and the other end of the cable line up well with the starter solenoid terminal. Compare original and second versions of cover for fuel sensor hole in headrest. Mark and trim skirt of new one to match original. File a slot for the cable and try the fit - it won't quite go in. The skirt is quite thick in places, so file it thinner with a Perma-Grit block and taper the edge slightly to provide a lead-in. Now it fits easily but firmly. Push it all the way down.	3001.5
17	Remove aft and starboard baffles. Think about fitting anchor nuts for their fixing screws but leave it for now as I'd need to get my head into the footwell and the cockpit still has a lot of other stuff in it. Check again the oil hose runs and lengths. Trim the short elbow end of C06 hose and check fit on oil pump inlet - looks good. Try routing the other end over the triangulation tube on the engine mount. Offer up the oil cooler to check and that seems to offer a better line-up of the hose with the oil cooler outlet (port side). Mark and cut off the lower end of C06, leaving it a little generous - further slight trimming may be needed when things are properly fitted. Check again the hose from the oil tank outlet to the oil cooler inlet (starboard side). Mark and cut it as for C06. Don't know why I didn't observe it before, but now notice that the manual calls for the engine oil sump banjo to be re-oriented towards the starboard side. It will be easier to do that with the duct out of the way, so leave it until later - but note that the torque for the banjo bolt is 35Nm (25.8 ft-lb). The bolt is drilled for lock-wiring but I can't see a handy place to anchor the lockwire. There appear to be only 4 hose clips supplied with the "Conti" hose that came with the engine, although 6 are needed for the 3 hose runs. It appears that Europa-supplied CLIP00 should be used, as there are 6 of those in Box 20 and I can find no other hoses of that size. Lubricate short elbow end of C04 water hose and slide onto expansion tank outlet. The vertical section seems to be slightly too far aft, so trim about 8mm off the short elbow and try it again. That seems better; certainly needs no more trimming as the vertical section is now quite close to a protruding joint on the engine mount. (Wonder if I could/should interpose something like a piece of PTFE sheet there to minimise the chance of abrasion damage - and likewise further down by the rudder spring retainer.) Start to think about the order in which the various things can be assembled. It looks very difficult to fit the oil cooler to the duct once the duct is in-situ, so it needs to be fitted before the duct is installed. However, the bolts holding the sides of the duct to CD4 & CD5 need to be fitted before the water radiator and oil cooler as they will be obstructed by them. It will definitely be awkward, but the bolts holding the sides of the duct to the inner faces of the footwells could probably be fitted after the coolers. It looks as though the brackets CD4 & CD5 will need to come off the footwells again so that they can be fitted to the sides of the duct before it is installed. (NB it will be a 2-person job to re-fit them; may even need 2 to remove them.) It looks as though the hose clips for the oil cooler connexions need to be fitted before the water radiator as they are behind it. Need to check if it would be possible to get at the clips for tightening from the aft side. Perhaps the hoses could be fitted to the oil cooler and then pushed up through the duct and onwards? It looks as though it might just be possible to tighten the hose clips on the water hoses by reaching down through the engine mount. Rout out the brown foam around the edges of the access holes in the headrests, using the circular cutter in the Dremel tool as for similar previous jobs. Move the instrument panel module and other stuff back into the baggage bay so I can get into the cockpit. Hold MS21047-3 anchor nuts in position at 4 places under the top of the starboard footwell for the baffle fixing, using 3/8" temporary button screws. The usual spacing nut is too thick to let the screws catch, so instead use 1 or 2 washers. Clamber into cockpit and get head-down under the footwell. Drill in 8 places for the rivets. Countersink the holes on the upper surface and pull a TAPK33BS rivet in each.	3004.6
20	After some useful replies to my query on the Matronics e-mail list about the assembly sequence for the duct and the coolers, order from Merlin Motorsport some stainless hose clips with hex driver heads for both oil and water hoses. Have another look at the oil sump banjo and as pointed out on the Matronics list, there is a hole for anchoring the lockwire right beside it. Put the contents of cardboard boxes 3 and 8, plus the exhaust bits bag, into a 9l Really Useful Box (RUB), and the contents of boxes 5 & 17 into a 18l RUB. Put various loose tools into a 9l RUB. These boxes can stack neatly. Toss out some blue foam scraps and collect other potentially useful pieces in a plastic tub. With some floor space thus cleared, it looks as though there might be room to temporarily store the engine by the west wall between the resin cupboard and the small hardware drawers. I will need to take the engine off to get the stainless steel firewall fitted.
22	Hose clips delivered from Merlin Motorsport.
23	Fit 4 anchor nuts on the port footwell; 2 for the port baffle and 2 for the aft baffle. Notice that although the screw and rivet holes have been drilled, the anchor nuts have not been fitted for the 3 fixing screws along the rear edge of the aft baffle. The firewall is quite thick there, with all the reinforcing layups, so, fit anchor nuts in turn with 5/8" button-head temporary screws and 3 spacing washers. Have to use TAPK36BS rivets. Try them out for size and the forward face needs quite a deep countersink even for these longer rivets. Need to use the Tight Fit drill kit for the countersinking, as the firewall material is a bit tough for spinning a drill bit by hand, and various parts of the engine mount are quite close. There is not enough room for the air-hydraulic rivet puller either, so use the hand rivet pliers. For the outer pairs of rivets, nearest the engine mount, need to use the old Tucker TT6 rivet pliers as they have a much slimmer head than the Stanley one. Because of the uneven inner surface, the anchor nuts have tilted a bit and the holes for the screws need to be enlarged slightly to allow the screws to enter the anchor nuts comfortably. As there won't be room to get a Philips turnscrew in there, will have to use AN3 bolts with washers. Try AN3-5A and they look as though they will be in safety with the thickness of the baffle plus a washer.	3006.6
24	Position aft baffle and consider how fuel hose might run from firewall. It is obvious now that a 45 degree elbow is optimum for the junction at the stainless steel firewall. The AN970-9 washers I got for reinforcing the hole in the firewall weigh about 56g, but the M14 stainless penny washers weigh about 30g. Although they are a bit smaller I think they would be more suitable as they would allow the fitting to be positioned slightly nearer to the side of the firewall. That would reduce the bending required as the hose leaves the side of the tunnel, and the chance of interference with the bungee. Mark the aft baffle with an approximate position for a cutout to accommodate the fuel hose - although I don't yet know how to protect the hose from the raw metal edge there. Fit the starboard rear and port rear baffles with short temporary button-head screw. Position the starboard and port front baffles and fit the lower cowl with screws in the 3 upper positions each side. It's a bit tricky to get the cowl into position because the propeller flange blocks the sliding of the cowl inlets over the forward end of the baffles. There will be not such an issue once the central hole in the cowl is enlarged to its final size. The starboard front baffle needs more relief around the oil tank inlet but otherwise looks a good fit. The port front baffle needs to be re-bent upward at its forward end (as for the starboard one). Find that by removing port upper spark plug leads I can wiggle the port front baffle out without having to drop the cowl, which saves a lot of time. Straighten the front 2 bends on it, gripping it between 2 lengths of aluminium angle in the vice. Re-position and the front-most bend has been taken a bit too far - that flange need to tilt upwards a bit to match the shape of the cowl inlet. After adjusting the bend it looks pretty good, although some relief is needed near a screw on the gearbox. It seems that the port front baffle is most comfortable on top of the rear one, whereas the starboard front baffle fits best underneath the rear one. Will check again after making the reliefs identified above. Note that the anchor nut at the starboard side of the spinner needs to be re-located slightly outboard to keep the end of the screw clear of the fuel pump.	3008.2
26	Remove lower cowl. Cut out notch for gearbox screw clearance on port front baffle with power nibbler and smooth off with files. Likewise enlarge cutout for oil tank inlet on starboard front baffle. Re-check fits (with both front baffles fitted under the rear ones) and fettle port one a bit more. With both baffles in position re-fit cowl as before with 3 screws each side. Starboard baffle looks all OK. Position front part so it is just touching both inlet manifolds and hold front and rear parts together with a cleco clamp. Hold it up against the underside of the cowl inlet as well as possible and drill through the cowl lip into the aluminium with a sharp new 2.3mm drill bit. Open the hole up to 3mm and fit a cleco. With a #50 bit in the Tight Fit drill kit, drill through the overlap of the rear and front baffles near the oil tank inlet. Enlarge to 3mm with a long but and fit cleco. Repeat for a 2nd hole near the outboard side of the carburettor. There is room and apparently driver access for a 3rd screw on the inboard side of the carburettor, but I can't get a drill to it in-situ. Mark the spot and it can be drilled later when the baffles are out, with alignment preserved by the first 2 holes. Port front baffle needs a bit of relief to clear the cowl at its forward edge. Disconnect port upper spark plug leads and wiggle out baffle as before. Use hand nibbler & files to make a shallow curved cutaway. Re-position it and it looks ready to be drilled. With some effort put a cleco clamp onto the inboard end of the baffle overlap and ensure the front part is touching both inlet manifolds. Hold baffle up against the cowl lip, drill as before with 2.3mm & 3mm and fit cleco. Start to drill holes in overlap but something has moved and the alignment is wrong. Re-position and try again - looks better now, although after fitting the clecos at the overlap the forward end is a bit tilted (perhaps the hole in the cowl lip is not exactly central?) and higher than I'd prefer with respect to the cylinder fins. Will probably be OK with a slight bit of re-bending.	3010.9
29	Toby from Targett Aviation e-mails to say that some priming and flatting has been done, with the ailerons taken right back to "see-through", but his painter has now gone sick so there will be a pause before further progress.
30	Thinking about how to take the fuel hose through the forward edge of the aft baffle, maybe a pair of saddle clamps could secure it sufficiently to avoid chafing. Search around online and order from eBay a couple of steel saddle clamps for 13mm OD pipe. I hope they will be OK for the Speedflow 100-06 hose, which is 13.9mm OD. Think again about re-positioning the cowl screw on the starboard side of the spinner. The existing hole on the upper half of the cowl will need to be filled - with flox? - before re-drilling, as the new hole will be only about 10mm outboard from it. Remove lower cowl. Remove and bend port front baffle slightly to bring it closer to forward cylinder fins. Remove all side baffle pieces. Cleco port side baffles together at overlap and because one hole is too near the edge of the front part, re-drill it slightly more central on the flange (after checking that I can get a driver past the carburettor onto the new location). One at a time, drill holes out to 4.8mm, fit anchor nut with temporary screw and drill 2.4mm for rivets. Deburr, countersink for rivet heads and pull rivets to secure anchor nut. Also pull a larger countersunk rivet from domestic stock in the unwanted hole. On the starboard baffle parts, drill a 3rd hole on the overlap where marked near inboard edge. As for port side, fit 3 anchor nuts on forward overlap flange. Also fit anchor nut for fixing to cowl lip. Decide not to fit port side anchor nut for cowl lip yet, as I really need to check that the location is still correct after bending the baffle. Re-fit baffles and then fit lower cowl. On starboard side it's reasonably easy to locate and screw in the screw to fix the baffle to the cowl lip. The baffle is a bit closer than expected to the front cylinder fins, but otherwise all seems OK. On the port side, I can't locate the hole in the baffle under the hole in the cowl lip. Eventually scratch a new location on the baffle using a scriber through the cowl lip hole. The bend might need straightening a bit more to make lineup easier, so decide not to drill any new hole just yet.	3013.5

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