||Cut and file back the layup at the bottom of the port outboard baggage bay support rib which overlaps the gascolator access hole slightly, to restore the original hole outline. Re-open the screw and rivet holes at that side of the flange with 2.6mm & 4.8mm drills. Spin a 5.2mm drill bit in the rivet holes to restore the countersinks. Hold anchor nuts in place with usual temporary screws and set rivets using the spacer on the air riveter. Test fit the cover with 0.5" button-head screws - seems fine. Temporarily put gascolator in place, slipping screws through bracket into rib. Drain position seems to align OK with central hole in access hole cover plate. Consider how to get at the ends of the layups on the bottom of the ribs to cut and file off the excess; sitting on the seatback with feet in baggage wells is certainly not an option.
||Spend some time trying out the options for being able to reach and see the layup on the aft face of the baggage bay bulkhead. A single stack of cushions is not stable enough, and a makeshift wooden platform is (even more) uncomfortable than anything else. Fit the baggage shelf access hole covers with 3/8" button-head screws. Pile cushions across full width of baggage shelf, with the last layer protruding over the edge of the D hole to cover the sharp edge there. Lie on them with head and shoulders through the D hole and re-abrade the bonding area on the fuselage and the aft face of the baggage bay bulkhead. Wipe down with acetone-soaked tissues. Mark out 4 off 400mm x 50mm and 4 off 300mm x 50mm on BID. Mark out 4 corresponding rectangles on pieces of polyethylene sheet, with longitudinal centre lines. Cut out the 8 BID tapes and lay 2-thick on the polyethylene sheets. Mix a peg-5 (90g) batch of standard epoxy and wet out BID. Move epoxy cup and brush to aft fuselage floor. Slide a 400mm x 50mm tape onto a piece of plywood and climb with it into the fuselage, sliding it off the plywood onto the rear fuselage floor once I have reached through the D hole. Lie on my left side and lift the polyethylene sheet to position the layup, starting at the bottom of the junction between the port lower aft face of the baggage bay bulkhead and the fuselage side. Ease the whole strip into place, keeping an eye on the centre line to ensure it stays reasonably well aligned with the junction line. Press into place and carefully peel off the polyethylene sheet. Fold that up to prevent it sticking to anything. Stipple the BID well into the corner with the brush. Now that I have somewhere not too excruciatingly uncomfortable to lie, the layup itself was pleasantly trouble-free. Crawl out with the scrap polyethylene sheet and bring in a 300mm x 50mm tape in the same way. There seems to be no point in trying to get several BID tapes into the rear fuselage at once; there isn't really room for them all, and unlike some of the other layups where I could reach in to put the BID tapes onto the fuselage floor I have to crawl almost all the way in anyway to put it down. Also, despite the effort of getting in and out, it is quite good to have a break from the lying-down position with my head unsupported. Place the 300mm tape to overlap the first one by about 25mm and persuade it into position. Remove the polyethylene sheet and stipple down as before. Next fetch and apply the 2 remaining tapes, starting at the bottom of the starboard side. Measure the distance between the top ends of the port & starboard tapes - about 375mm. Mark out 4 off 250mm x 50mm pieces of BID and 2 matching pieces of polyethylene with centre lines. Cut out BID and lay 2-thick on polyethylene sheets. Mix a peg-2 (45g) cup of epoxy and wet out BID. As before, lift the BID tapes into the rear fuselage in turn and apply them to close the gap between the earlier layups, ensuring good overlap. Cut about 1900mm length off the 70mm peel-ply roll, and a lot of small rectangles of peel-ply about 70mm x 80mm from the 250mm roll. Crawl back in with all the peel-ply and apply the long strip over the layup on the fuselage side of the join, stippling it well down with the brush. Need to add a little more epoxy at the top to make sure the peel-ply doesn't droop there. Apply the small pieces of peel-ply to the layup on the aft face of the baggage bay bulkhead, overlapping each slightly onto the fuselage and onto the adjacent piece of peel-ply. Crawl out, taking out brush, spare peel-ply, tissues, etc. Move cushions clear of D hole edge. 20C, 58% RH on top of cushions. Turn off floor fan heater and turn on the one inside the rear fuselage. Drape polyethylene sheet over the cockpit openings. 21C, 51% RH before leaving garage. Need a shower to get some epoxy out of my hair! By bedtime, 21C, 44% RH inside the fuselage.
||21C, 38% RH on top of cushion stack on baggage shelf; layup well cured; turn off fan heater. Remove peel-ply from layup. Cut off protruding aft ends of rib layups with padsaw. File epoxy samples.
||Assemble fuel flow sender to adjacent pipework and check fit of bracket against baggage shelf support rib. Because the bracket holes are so close to the fuselage floor, will have to use the tight-fit drill kit to drill the rib, but the longer of the 1/4" bits on the kit is not quite long enough to keep the drill boss clear of the underside of the bracket. Instead, use a 6mm hex shank drill bit in the hex adaptor. Holding sender and bracket firmly in position against the rib, drill through the rib using the forward bracket hole as a guide bush. Push a bolt through to maintain the alignment and drill through the aft hole in the same way. Remove the flow sender and re-cap the pipes. Using padsaw and Perma-Grit files, clean up the raw forward ends of the layups at the bottom of the baggage shelf support ribs.
||Remove fan heater from inside rear fuselage and set it running on floor. Remove tools etc and vacuum out rear fuselage floor. For the studs to hold the fuel hose clips, instead of plywood as mentioned by John Bean, find a piece of 1/4" SRBF (Tufnol) and bandsaw off 3 pieces about 5/8" square. Mark and drill them centrally 4mm. Countersink for the A206-D24 stainless 3/4" screws. Tap 10-32 UNF. Insert screws part-way then mix some rapid epoxy and apply it around the threads under the heads. Tighten down the screws and wipe off excess epoxy. After cure, store prepared studs in the packet with the MS21919-WDG9 clips for the SS braided fuel hose. Remove flow sender from bracket. Chamfer bottom edge to better match layup corner. Offer up bracket with fixing screws but the 3/4" ones I have are a bit short and the stiffnuts would not be in safety. Order some 7/8" and 1" SS capscrews from Westfield. Spend some time deburring and straightening the edges of the 4 stainless steel firewall pieces, using edge deburring tool, files, coarse emery cloth, power file and ball-pein hammer.
||After much scrutiny of the pictures I took of John Bean's engine installation, decide that a 45 degree elbow is most likely to be suitable for the joint where the fuel line goes through the firewall. Check fit of AN970-9 washers on AN837-06 elbow - OK. Offer up port upper firewall stainless steel sheet piece to landing gear frame. The engine mount cutout needs much relieving. After widening the slot with snips, try to enlarge the end radius with a step drill, but it tends to curl up one side of the sheet before much cutting is done. Continue working on it with power file, snips, files etc until a satisfactory fit on the tube is achieved. Trim port edge to allow it to slide into position - quite a bit needs to be removed, and it looks as though the extra width predicted from the card try-out is a bit excessive. Check overlap and line-up of starboard upper piece at intervals until satisfied with the fit of both. Before bending the top flanges on those two, try fitting the starboard outer piece of firewall. It won't go past the narrow gap between the starboard rudder control horn and the lower diagonal of the landing gear frame. Make the bend in the lower part of it, using a couple of aluminium angles in the vise jaws to hold it and a length steel to push the bend over. Doesn't help much to get it into place, though. Have a look through the Europa Club Hints and Tips, but that offers no specific advice other than alternative firewall arrangements. The aft rudder tube needs to come out to be able to fit the firewall, so disconnect the joint at the aft side and remove the control horn. Slide the starboard pedal outboard to bring the connecting plate flush with the side of the footwell and thus clear of the working area. Remove the inboard clamp on the port footwell and wiggle the port pedal outboard to get it out of the way. Offer up the starboard side firewall panel and it seems to fit quite well. Make the upper bend, check the fit and then bend the bottom and top tabs. Fit seems to be quite good, but needs to be more snug against the lower diagonal tube where the clearance between that and the rudder control horn is minimal. Tightening the bends seems to help a bit but the slot for the engine mount tube needs to be lengthened too. Work on that with the power file and that seems to have done the trick, with the sheet now in good contact with the top end of the lower diagonal tube, adjacent to the engine mount. However there is still an increasing gap lower down because the bottom end of the firewall piece is held away from the diagonal tube by the end of the bottom horizontal tube protruding. Work on area around the the bend with pliers, ball-pein hammer and copper mallet until it is in good contact with the surface of the diagonal tube well below the level of the rudder tubes. Get the P-clips and countersunk screws out and try the P-clips on the frame. Now of course the thickness of the P-clips ruins the nice fit of the sheet against the diagonal tubes, particularly the lower one. The hole in the lower flange does not line up with the mounting hole on the P-clip, but the upper one seems quite close. Drill out that hole to 4.8mm. Dimple it by hammering a spare 10-32 countersunk screw into it against a countersunk 4.8mm hole in a wooden block. With a bit of effort and several unsuccessful attempts to squeeze the clip closed (including breaking the mounting tag of one clip with the slip-grip pliers through squeezing too hard), manage to assemble the screw through the flange to the upper P-clip with a plain nut. Positioning the lower P-clip still causes the lower flange to be some way clear of the lower diagonal tube, but it now looks as though the hole is not too far off. Remove the upper P-clip. Drift the hole in the lower flange port-wise with a coarse round needle file, then run the 4.8mm drill through. Dimple the hole as before. With at least as much effort as before, assemble the upper P-clip and then the lower one. Try tapping the firewall sheet with copper mallet and wooden stake to get it closer to the diagonal tube in between the protrusions at top and bottom. It goes closer, but not enough. The starboard pedal tube does not have enough room to slide back into position despite all efforts to re-shape the firewall piece. Worse still, another sheet of stainless steel has to fit on top of this piece, which seems impossible given how difficult it is to get one layer fitting. Wonder if I could make up a small piece to fit closely around the tube and then somehow attach that to the starboard side and bottom firewall sections. There certainly seems to be enough material left to attempt it. Dealing with the joggles at the top and bottom would still be an issue, though. Post a query on the Matronics Europa e-mail list stating the problem and asking for advice. Checking back on the fitting of the rudder pedals, I see that on 1 May 2013 I used a 90mm spacer to get correct fore-and-aft alignment at the starboard side, as called out in the manual. However, a quick check with outside calipers against the stub end of the tube now shows about 93.5mm between front of tube and face of footwell. Wonder if the forward face of the footwell was distorted where the spacer was placed. Will need to take more careful measurements.
||Only one of the replies on the Matronics e-mail list is really promising, from Lance Sanford in Australia showing a firewall installation directly in front of the vertical landing gear tubes. It might require some effort to get LAA Engineering to accept it, although apparently they have agreed one even further back for a tri-gear. Look again at the rudder pedal shafts. The forward face of the forward one is 93mm aft of the inside face of the firewall at the short stub on the starboard end, and 94mm aft at the small gap between the bearing and the footwell tunnel. Don't understand how this could have happened as I used a 90mm spacer block at that side to get the positioning right, and have the pictures to prove it. Wonder if new bearing blocks could be made up with the pedal shaft holes offset slightly forward. Looking at the one dismantled for access, the edges of the bearing holes are just about 4mm from the edges of the bolt holes; maybe 3mm offset might be possible. The SRBF bearing blocks are 11.5mm (or 0.45" or 7/16") thick by 3/4" high. The double ones are 3" long and the single ones are 1.75" long. Re-assemble the aft rudder shaft halves and horn with temporary nuts. The clearances are more critical at about 45 degrees to the side than at the front where I was concentrating on hammering the sheet before. It looks as though there should be room if the stainless steel sheet can be persuaded to conform closely to the surface of the diagonal tube in that relatively small area. Mark the area on the tube with a felt-tip pen. Dismantle the aft rudder shaft again. Offer up the starboard side firewall piece and I can now see where it needs quite a bit of re-shaping to bring it in close to the side of the tube. Think about the possibility of making a form to simulate the shape of the tube and the obstructions at top and bottom. That could be used out in the open where I can get at it easily to beat the sheet into shape. Look around for tube offcuts that might be used and try a piece of 15mm copper plumbing pipe. However, the fittings I put on the ends to simulate the end protrusions are no good as they extend sideways too far as well. The basic idea seems sound; wonder if I could cut some pieces of steel tube or bar to the right size and end shapes and get Roger Bailey to weld them into place, with a support of some sort. The diagonal tube is 16mm diameter and the bottom tube is 19mm diameter. Order 300mm lengths of EN1A bright mild steel in both sizes from MetalandPlastic. Considering other various pieces of advice about the firewall, it seems that it would be best not to make any holes in it for fuel pipes etc until I have done a trial fit of the engine. One person reported having to take the engine off more than once because of problems with the location of various things, so one planned fit and removal seems sensible.
||Stainless steel capscrews 1/4" UNF by 7/8" and 1" delivered from Westfield.
||16mm steel rod delivered from MetalandPlastic but no sign of the 19mm, although it's on the included invoice. Make a phone query and they say they'll look into it and e-mail me.
||Thinking that even with the proposed tooling to get the firewall shaped as closely as possible to the landing gear frame, I may still need to move the rudder pedal pivot axis slightly forward to get enough clearance. Look online for SRBF (Tufnol) suppliers. Find that theplasticshop.co.uk will cut to size; £31.1 for 600mm x 22mm of 12mm Carp brand (fine weave) sheet; also Plastic Stockists does the same for £25.97.
||No sign of any response from MetalandPlastic; phone again and they say that rather than spend time chasing it they'll send a replacement piece of 19mm mild steel rod. Just in case it will be needed, order a 600mm x 22mm piece of Carp brand Tufnol 12mm sheet for replacement rudder pedal shaft bearings from Plastic Stockists. Assemble fuel flow sender to its bracket with one of the 1/4"-28 UNF x 1.5" SS capscrews and one short temporary screw for alignment, to allow access to bracket mounting screws (could have planned the bracket size and hole layout to avoid this if I'd thought!). Fit bracket to port inboard baggage bay support rib using 1/4"-28 UNF x 7/8" SS capscrews with large washers and stiffnuts on inner side of rib. Remove the temporary screw holding the sender in alignment on the bracket and fit the 1.5" capscrew with washer and stiffnut. Tighten all nuts. Offer up fuel pipe to flow sender and pump, check fit, engage union nuts and do up finger-tight, then tighten with aluminium spanner. Offer up gascolator on bracket to port outboard rib and assemble pipe between gascolator and pump with union nuts finger-tight. Fit gascolator bracket to rib with 7/8" capscrews as for flow sender. Tighten union nuts on pipe between gascolator and pump. Assemble loosely the pipes onto the gascolator inlet and the flow sender output. Check required angle of elbow at edge of wheel well by temporarily fitting the SS braided hose and positioning it towards the top of the tunnel. Tighten the nut holding the elbow to the bracket, and tighten the nut on the fuel pipe connected to the elbow. Climb back inside and tighten the pipe union nuts on the gascolator inlet and the flow sender output. Check size of rudder pedal shafts - 0.75". Start to think about how to bore the holes in the SRBF (Tufnol) for those shafts - the boring head for the lathe won't readily fit on the milling machine. The wire bundles from the flow sender and pump need to be secured on their way to the ducting at the fuselage side. The flow sender wires could do with a clip on the rib as well as some on the bulkhead. Get out 3 of the previously-made small cable clips and abrade the bonding areas on them. Abrade the areas on the rib and baggage bay bulkhead where the clips will go. Mix a batch of 90-second Araldite, spread it on the flanges of the clips and place them onto the wire bunches, holding in position until set. A bit tricky to manage both sides of all 3 clips with only 2 hands, and the gloves keep sticking to the clips and pulling them off when I try to re-position my fingers, but manage to keep them all in contact, in roughly the desired spots, until the epoxy gels. Next time must remember to use the little wooden bridges which hold down both sides of the clip at once.
||SRBF (Tufnol) and 19mm steel rod delivered.
||Thinking about what size holes to make in edges of baggage bay bulkhead for conduit, consider what each side is to carry. From baggage bay bulkhead on port side to headrest carries trim cable, fuel pump wires (2) and fuel flow sender wires (3). Forward of that it will carry in addition analogue fuel level wires (2), digital fuel sender wires (3) and strobe wires (3). Starboard conduit carries comm aerial coax and transponder wire bundle (9); and it will also need to be open at the headrest to add strobe wires (3). The location of the strobe power unit has yet to be decided. Not sure about where pitot/static tubing and stall warner tubing & wiring will go, likewise the wires to the OAT sensor. The wires to the wing leveller servo (7) will go forward along the starboard side of the tunnel at floor level and then up towards the panel; similarly the P1 PTT and stick trim wires (5 total) will go along the port side of the tunnel at floor level and upwards. Decide to postpone making conduit holes until later. Temporarily fit the SS braided hose to the elbow at the edge of the wheel well and position the hose along the top of the tunnel. Lightly hold it in place against the landing gear frame with a spring clamp. Position a clip on the curve of the tunnel where it looks right and retract the wheel to check that it is clear. Drop wheel, adjust clip position slightly, retract wheel again and once happy with it, mark the fixing stud location with a felt-tip pen. Remove hose and re-cap hose and elbow. Abrade the SRBF head of one of the previously-made studs and the bonding area around the mark in the tunnel. Find a piece of aluminium tubing that can be wedged against the dolly to support the stud while bonding. Mix 10g + 4g Redux. Add about 1 dose of flox, in small stages until non-slump. Degrease stud and bonding area in tunnel with acetone. Apply Redux to stud base and tunnel, position stud. Stays in place quite well. Put aluminium tube in place and wedge very lightly against dolly. Place fan heater under fuselage and direct towards tunnel. Grind a hollow on the end of the 16mm mild steel round rod with the bench grinder and smooth it to a cylindrical profile with a half-round file. Test it against 19mm rod, file again to an angle. To measure the angle between the landing gear bottom tube and the diagonal tube, insert a small straight piece of wood into the bottom tube and wedge it against the inside top surface. Lay a thin piece of plywood against the front face of the diagonal tube and clamp it to the other piece with a cleco clamp. Withdraw wedge and carefully remove the assembly. The angle between the 2 edges is 119 degrees. Compare with rods offered up together; the fishtail on the 16mm rod needs to be angled more. Grind a bit more and file smooth. Measure angle, repeat until angle about right. Profile fishtail with coarse emery cloth wrapped around 19mm rod. Now need to figure out how to hold them in alignment (angle and length) for welding. Leave fan heater running.
||Noting some unhappy experiences reported by others with USB outlets, have a look online at solutions for USB converter noise. Problems apparently extend up to 100MHz, but seems to be no problem to make a pi-filter with a small inductor. Download a few suggestions and specs. Spend some (unlogged) time looking for the Mod 61A parts (sensor, wire, sounder); they are not in Box 12 where the database says they should be. A quick scan through the boxes in the trailer, garage & office fails to find them. No doubt they are somewhere REALLY SAFE. Check where the hole should be for the tubing and by shining a light through from inside it's easy to check how it will relate to the seatback. Remove the aluminium tube prop from the stud under the tunnel. The Redux is cured, although the sample in the cup is not yet glass-hard, still a little rubbery. Fit the SS braided hose to the elbow at the edge of the wheel well. and fit a clamp to the stud with a plain nut to check how it lines up - looks fine. Check line of hose further forward to decide where other stud(s) should go, trying to take account of the throttle and choke cables. Decide that one hose-clamp each end of the retract lever rubbing strip would be good. Doesn't seem to be an easy way to wedge the studs in position while curing. Slide the bungee loops as far to starboard as possible for access to tunnel from firewall. Try a small g-clamp but it's difficult to insert it through the slot. Find the clamps I made up to hold the Redux heaters on the forward wing pins and they can be fitted into the slot fairly easily. With some wood on top of the tunnel for softening and spacing they will be fine. Replace the slotted-head brass screws with hex capscrews for easier handling. Abrade the bonding areas and the mounting face of the studs with coarse Perma-Grit sheet and degrease with acetone. Mix 10g + 4g Redux and add some flox (less than yesterday as I want it slightly thinner). Spread Redux thinly onto bonding area under tunnel at aft end of retract lever slot, and onto the head of one stud. Position stud and press firmly against the tunnel and the end of the rubbing strip, making sure no Redux squeezes out into the slot. Quickly crawl out and slip clamp into slot. Locate stud by feel and hold clamp up against it while doing up screw lightly onto wooden spacer. Look underneath again to check clamp position. Adjust slightly, crawl out and tighten screw a bit more, just enough to hold the stud in firm contact with the tunnel. Repeat the process for the stud at the forward end of the rubbing block. This is slightly easier as I can reach both top and bottom of the job at the same time from the firewall end. Clamp the retract lever in the centre of its travel to prevent it moving and interfering with the clamps. Set fan heater underneath fuselage, directed towards the tunnel but not too close to the tyre.
||Find the stall warner parts - in Box 26. It was in the office but went un-noticed yesterday as it was sitting on top of the connector drawers, away from the other boxes. Correct the location in the parts database. Redux sample cured to slightly rubber state as yesterday's. Remove clamps from studs and from retract lever. Cut back a couple of small areas where Redux has squeezed into the edge of the retract lever slot. Fit the SS braided hose to the elbow at the edge of the wheel well and attach the 3 clips to the studs with plain nuts. Find that it's possible to use the socket on the screwdriver handle to push both wings of the clip onto the stud. To get the nut engaged, have to load 3 spare nuts into the socket first so that the last nut is pressed onto the end of the stud. Awkward doing up the one nearest the firewall but maybe could just about reach it from underneath next time. Hose run looks excellent. Lay a steel rule across the landing gear frame and mark that position on the hose with a felt-tip pen for future reference. Wrap adhesive tape around the hose at that point to make the mark more visible. Remove hose and re-cap ends. Store hose and clips in box 27. Check stall warner wire harness for length. It's clearly intended that the sounder is at the forward end of the overhead panel with wires going up forward edge of door frame. The supply wires are not quite long enough to reach the fuse at the port side of the panel so some extension or replacement is required. If I take the sounder wires backwards they barely reach the baggage-bay bulkhead end of the conduit. Unscrew cover of headset jack box to check if there's room for the sounder in there - looks fine on inside of forward face. Check loudness of sounder - probably needs to be open to the air. Remove overhead panel. Check if the sounder can be heard with the jack box lid on - no, it's too muffled. Take jack box off overhead panel. Mark and step-drill a 24mm hole on the forward face. Mark through lugs and drill 2.2mm for M2 fixing screws. Fit some M2 x 6mm screws from stock with plain nuts but they are a bit short. Next size I have is 12mm which is too long. Reconsider stall warner wiring and realise that a small adjustment of the shrink-wraps at the tee-junction will ensure that there are no joints within the conduit. In the trailer, check the length of stall-warner tubing protruding from the wing root and cut 750mm off it, leaving plenty to pass over spar and reach to the vicinity of the fuselage hole. Close up trailer and bring in tube offcut. Double-check with light shone from both sides that the marked fuselage hole position is correct. Drill 1/4" and clean up hole edges both sides with hand-held Perma-Grit cone bit. Check that tube fits. Start to think about headset hangers and bring the headsets down to check positions, but it's hard to find a location that will not get in the way somehow, or present a hazard to eyes when the hooks are not in use. One possibility is piano-wire loops mounted forward of the jack box and arranged to spring back almost flush with the overhead panel when not in use. Notice that one of the screws securing the brake lever is loose. Its only got a plain nut, so remove it and the other one and re-fit with stiffnuts. Had to use a tack as a wedge against the nuts as the counterbored hole is too tight to admit a socket. With long 1/8" bit in Tight-Fit drill kit, drill through the bottom aft corner of the starboard wing pin retainer block, to allow the stall warner wires to pass. Measure protrusion of bottom tube beyond diagonal one on landing gear frame - about 5mm at the top of the bottom tube, but the weld fillet makes it hard to be precise. Add half the width of the fishtail on the 16mm rod (about 8.5mm) and mark a line on the 19mm rod 13.5mm from the end. Set the rod on Vee-blocks and spot on the line with a large centre-drill. Tilt drill table 29 degrees. Clamp rod to Vee-blocks, aligning centre-spot with drill axis. Drill through with 7/64" bit then go up in steps of 1/32" at a time until 15/64". Finish with 6mm. Grind a recess on the back of the rod for the head of a M6 screw. Drill the fishmouth end of the 16mm rod freehand 7/64", lining up by eye as well as possible. Enlarge to 5mm and tap M6. Assemble the 2 rods with a M6 screw and check the angle against the wooden template - looks virtually perfect! Protrusion of 19mm rod might be slightly greater than required, but if necessary it could be filed back. Measure length of diagonal tube as about 6" and cut 16mm rod to match. Cut off back end of 19mm rod. Bring stall-warner kit back to Box 26. Order M2 x 8mm & M2 x 10mm button-head screws and M2 stiffnuts from ModelFixings.
||Try strobe power unit for size in base of instrument module but it won't quite fit. Maybe it will have to go under the baggage bay. Either way, it looks as though the cables to the strobe heads (3-core) will need to go down the sides of the seats like the stall warner sensor wires. Similarly the OAT sensor wires.