Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2019 12

index

sitemap

advanced

search engine by freefind

go to list of milestones

Navigation & Acknowledgements

day	notes	hours
6	Remove cable ties from the prepared length of 5/8" firesleeve. Leaving the pump end of the hose taped over to keep the braid tidy, slide the firesleeve over the firewall-to-pump hose,with assistance from the airline blow-gun. Part way through the process the fine nozzle of the blow-gun breaks off - too much bending. Retrieve the broken-off tube, set it and the adaptor aside for repair, then carry on with a shorter nozzle. Slide the firesleeve well over the firewall-end fitting. to leave plenty of hose free at the pump end. Peel off the tape and blow out the hose once more. Carefully slide and twist the cover clamp onto the hose. Lubricate pump nipple and hose end with SAE30 oil. Hose slides onto nipple quite easily Keeping end of hose pressed against end of cover clamp, tighten the clamp with 1/4" hex socket. Work the firesleeve towards the pump end to equalise its overlap onto the fittings. Fit the hose-end to the firewall elbow and tighten the nut with an aluminium spanner. Fit a stainless steel cable tie to each end of the firesleeve and tighten. Trim excess ends off cable ties and bend the sharp ends in for safety. Remove cable ties from pump-to-4-way firesleeve and re-tape the open end of the corresponding hose. Slide firesleeve onto hose - quite easy this time without any assistance from airline. Again slide firesleeve well over hose-end for access to other end. Remove tape and fit cover clamp with sliding & twisting action. Takes quite a bit of effort and twisting to get it fully home. Lubricate pump nipple and hose. Push hose onto pump nipple - needs quite a lot of force. Slide firesleeve further back to allow a grip on the hose with pliers, taking care not to damage the braid. With much effort, eventually get it fully home, then tighten clamp. I guess this length of stiffer hose, which resists bending more than the newer stock, is also more resistant to radial stretching to get it over the nipple, and hope that fitting the more flexible hoses to the carburettor nipples will be less of a struggle. Slide firesleeve along to partially cover both end fittings equally. Fit SS cable ties, trim ends and bend under as for previous hose. After looking again at photos of other installations, re-arrange fuel pump hoses to pass under transverse ignition harness, thus keeping them further away from the coolant expansion tank overflow outlet. Re-check that the carburettor and return line hoses will reach OK to the resultant slightly altered position of the AN827-4D 4-way cross union. With the experience of the firesleeve just fitted and the ease of sliding it over the 101-04 hose-end, I am now confident that the 0.5" firesleeve can be used for the short length of hose that contains the return line restrictor, and that there is no need to use the AE102-12 (0.75" ID) firesleeve. Measure and cut off a length of AE102-8 (0.5" ID) firesleeve. Mix up some fresh RTV-toluene mixture and dip one end of the firesleeve in it. The firesleeve seems to have recovered its correct cylindrical shape so there is no need to fit cable-ties this time. After an hour or so, remove the firesleeve, wipe excess mixture off the outside and dip the other end. After another hour or so, take the firesleeve out of the mixture, wipe off the outside and leave it to dry.	3145.9
7	Look for the factory-supplied fuel hoses in the trailer. From the parts database I expected them to be in box 22 but that box seems to have gone and I found them in box 21 (along with seat harnesses etc). Retrieve the IH-000 (6mm ID) hose and bring it in to the garage, for consideration of the fuel flow testing assembly. Remove return-line restrictor hose, slackening off the fuel pressure sender to let it out. Fit the prepared firesleeve to it. Attach a fresh restrictor legend paper with heat-shrink sleeve. Re-fit the hose and the fuel pressure sensor. Fit SS cable ties, trimming and bending the ends as before. Remove the cable ties from the firesleeve for the hose which connects the 4-way cross to the fuel return line. Slide the firesleeve onto the hose, pushing well over the existing hose-end to leave plenty of room for fitting the 2nd one. Remove the tape from the free end of the hose, and the braid immediately starts to spring open! Have not seen that happen before. Persuade it into the hose-end socket with help from a small screwdriver to tuck the errant braids into the mouth of the socket. Twist and push socket until the hose is fully home. Lubricate hose and nipple but can't seem to get enough force on the nipple to get it pushed into the hose and started on the threads of the socket. Eventually find an offcut of cylindrical aluminium that will fit inside the deep 9/16" socket and allow pressure to be brought on the nipple, while turning the TEE-handle. That works without too much drama and hose-end can be done up tight. Blow out the hose and fit it finger-tight to check the layout.	3147.7
19	To prevent chafing of choke and throttle Bowden cables against the castle nuts and split-pins, attach pieces of the rubber "firewall fabric" to the upper corners of the landing gear frame with cable-ties, covering the castle nuts. While checking baffle fitting, note that the starboard forward baffle needs to be fitted before the oil tank inlet hose. Position the aft baffle, sliding the throttle & choke Bowden cables into their slots and then realise that the re-alignment of the fuel firewall elbow means that the slot in the forward edge of the baffle is now in the wrong place. Mark the baffle for a new location, and check run of starter cable to make sure it does not interfere with the new position of the fuel hose. Mark baffle side slots where they need to be relieved slightly for the final position of the Bowden cables. Fit stainless steel cable ties to the fuel return line firesleeve. It looks as though the aft baffle needs to be fitted before the fuel lines to the carburettors. Remove aft baffle. Drill out the 12 rivets holding the rubber around the fuel hose slot and recover the washers. Mark out and cut with the nibblers a piece of aluminium sheet as a patch to cover the slot. File off rough corners. Drill holes in it to match the existing ones on the baffle, putting in clecos to maintain alignment. Check journal for rivets previously used (3.2mm x 8mm stainless) and look out some photos of other engine installations that might help in establishing the correct position of the C04 water hose. Trim the corner of the aluminium patch where the new slot will be. Extend the marked centreline of the new slot further back on the baffle, so it will be clear after cutting the slot. Start to cut out the new slot and then realise that in making it slightly larger than before to suit the firesleeve it is too wide for the existing rubber. Cut a new pieces from the wider stock of "firewall fabric" and mark a centreline on it. Finish cutting the slot in the aluminium. Holding rubber in place with centrelines aligned, drill through one of the existing hole that can be re-used and insert cleco with washer. Drill holes all around edge of rubber, inserting clecos in each one to maintain alignment. Using a 20mm leather hole punch, make a circular hole for the end of the slot in the rubber, and trim into it from the edge with the Tuff-Kut scissors. Take out all clecos, deburr all holes and edges. Fit aluminium patch with 3.2mm x 6mm SS rivets. Apply RTV to mating face of rubber and fit it to baffle. Start with 3.2mm x 6mm rivets but decide 3.2mm x 8mm are better for the extra thickness of rubber & washer. Clean up excess RTV with toluene.	3151.6
31	Enlarge the slots in the aft baffle in the areas marked, using the small hand nibbler. File edges smooth. Check fit of a cable after replacing the grommet edging strip - much better now. Replace the cable ties holding the pieces of protective rubber "firewall fabric" over the castellated nuts with black Nylon 66 weatherproof types, this time fitting 2 on each piece of rubber. While considering things that need to be done before fitting the aft baffle, notice that the live and earth cables for the starter motor are not yet labelled. The M6 capscrew on the starter earth lug looks too long at 30mm; 25mm would give more clearance for spanner access etc. Need to find or order locknuts or lockwashers for that screw, and for the starter live stud.	3152.3

go to previous page of journal	go to list of narrative pages	go to next page of journal
	Return to Rowland's home page

This page last updated 2020-02-06 10:26. I try to make this page as accessible as possible, by adhering to HTML 4 standards.
I welcome comments on this website. However, because of the amount of spam it attracts, I no longer post a direct e-mail address on any page. Instead, please click here to contact me. You will have to confirm that you are human before the message will be sent on to me.