Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2008 08

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1 The correct full-depth avionics aluminium panel from the Europa factory is waiting when we come back from holiday.
4 Phone Europa factory about the rivets in the last order; they had sent TLPK424BS although the invoice and packaging showed TLPD424BS. Notice that one of the TLPD440BS rivets looks like steel instead of aluminium so ask for another of those as well as the wanted 10-off TLPD424BS.
5 Package arrived from Europa factory; there are some TLPD440BS as wanted but the rest are still TLPK424BS (countersunk) not TLPD424BS (dome). Phone the factory and Roger says they had a delivery from their supplier that was incorrectly marked and they have no dome-head left in that size. He promises to send me some when they get the right stock. Remove peel-ply from headrest floors. Lead weights need persuasion to lift with an old chisel. Remove with considerable effort the peel-ply inside the starboard headrest (so glad I put a lifting tab on it - would have been almost impossible otherwise). Re-fit brake master cylinder and try to mark position of hole for filler plug. Remove cylinder and drill through best-guess spot 4mm. Re-mount cylinder and sight through hole - can see filler plug hex recess so pretty much spot on. Enlarge with various files to something under 20mm to clear filler plug, checking position several times by re-fitting cylinder. Possible cover for the hole would be an aluminium tab mounted on an adjacent screw. It could have a spigot that locates in the hole. Set up the CS03 for the wing-leveller crank on v-blocks and drill the 8 rivet holes in the barrel 3.2mm. 1064.6
6 Check instruments against new aluminium panel. Some extra clearance required on bottom holes of DI & AH. File and step-drill to match the sub-panel I made previously, then check for fit. Looks like there might be just enough room to fit an extra couple of anti-vibration bobbin mounts between the bottom instruments. Check rivet length needed to fasten wing-leveller crank arm to CS03 and open all 6 holes to 3.3mm as some are sticking in the existing 3.2mm holes. Shorten 6 off AN470-AD4-7 from 7/16" to 3/8" using rivet cropper - very easy and neat result. Scuff-sand mating surfaces of crank arm and CS03 with 600 grade wet-and-dry paper and degrease with acetone. Mix 10g + 4g of older Redux and spread thinly on both parts. Assemble and insert all 6 rivets to keep alignment (after painting with Duralac). Clamp assembly tightly with toolmakers clamps at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. Set the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock rivets with the 1-ton press. Remove 9 o'clock clamp and set 8 & 10 o'clock rivets, remove 3 o'clock clamp and set 2 & 4 o'clock rivets. Wipe off surplus Redux and Duralac with acetone-soaked tissue and leave to cure in airing cupboard. 1065.8
7 Find a piece of aluminium bar big enough (1 5/8" dia) to make the brake filler cover from. Chuck in lathe and clean up diameter for about 5mm from end. Re-chuck eccentric in 4-jaw to allow forming spigot about 20mm dia a couple of mm in from edge of bar. Find it easier and quicker to face off most of the waste rather than turn it down. Check exact hole diameter in cockpit module tunnel (18.6mm) and turn down spigot 3mm long to be a nice fit in it. Remove from lathe and hacksaw off end of bar, using end of cleaned surface as a guide. Bore out an existing split-collet workholder slightly to hold the spigot and face off the hacksawn end. Remove from lathe, mark out screw hole and shape of sides. Drill 4.8mm and hacksaw & file to shape. Tidy up using belt sander and fine (280) fibre wheel. Position spigot in access hole and mark cockpit module for screw hole. Drill through 4.8mm. Fit MS21047-3 anchor nut with short screw and drill through rivet holes 2.5mm then open up to 3.3mm. Countersink holes on top side. Find that the TLPK424BS rivets supplied in error recently will do nicely to secure the anchor nut. Paint rivets and anchor nut with Duralac and pull up rivets. Check fit of cover. Clean up brake master cylinder and all associated parts using brake fluid (Castrol Girling Universal SAE J1703) as lubricant, re-assemble piston and lever and fit to cockpit module. Put cockpit module into lower fuselage moulding to check fit. Sit in it briefly to check feel of brake handle - seems fine. 1073.3
12 Buy a bottle of Comma DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
14 Check fit of cockpit module in lower fuselage moulding. Remove and file down some high spots. Can't take much off without getting into the glass, though. Chamfer edges of holes in CS04s with deburring tool to fit radius on CS03s. Set cockpit module up on end to check positions of CS04 before drilling. Clamp ply strips to metre stick at right angles, 26.25" apart. Cockpit module seems to have moved since the thigh support ribs were installed as putting the CS04s at the correct distance apart no longer leaves room for the AN970-3 washers. Squeeze sides of cockpit module slightly and everything comes right again. Hold it in position with a long cramp and mark vertical lines on the back of the seat fronts by running the fine felt-tip pen along the edges of the ply strips on the metre stick. To project the vertical lines onto the front face of the seat, drill 2mm holes on each of these lines, above and below expected centre of final holes. Turn cockpit module right way up and mark the vertical lines on the front of the seats using the 2mm holes as guides. Drill through each with 54mm grit-edged holesaw, positioning the pilot bit on the marked line and the bottom edge of the holesaw just touching the floor flange of the cockpit module. Offer up CS04/CS03 assemblies to check fit and file CS04 aft bottom edges to match cockpit module radius. Mark up both CS02 with fine felt-tip pen for rivet positions and centre-pop. Drill 3.2mm and deburr inside with scalpel so they won't scratch CS03. Post query on Matronics e-mail list about whether to fit washers under heads of bolts securing CS04. 1076.3
15 Order fuel transfer pump from Alan Burrows. Post query on Matronics e-mail list about fitting grease nipples to CS04/CS06, and what kind of grease is safe to use. Get some angled grease nipples anyway from Karparts as they are only 50p. Make a test M6 tapping in a piece of scrap SRBF and try fitting the grease nipple. As it has a tapered thread, it is quite tight before fully home against the surface. Could be a risk of splitting the CS04/CS06 pieces if over-tight as the hole would be going into the "end grain" of the Tufnol. Sort out a few M6 washers of various thicknesses in case they are needed for positioning the angled grease nipple in the correct direction. Cut 4 squares of polyethylene sheet and cut a circle in the middle of each using CS04 as a template. Slit one side of each so they can easily be pulled out of the CS02/CS03/CS04 assembly after curing and leave a slight clearance. Apply masking tape across the slits to keep them in shape. 1076.6
18 Phone Europa factory and confirm that washers should be used under the heads of the bolts securing CS04, and that no grease should be applied to the bore of CS04/CS06, so no need to fit grease nipples. Some postings in the e-mail list archives suggest that a potential cause of binding in the control system is CS05 not being coaxial with CS03 or CS07, and than some sort of thin spacers at bonding time might help. Have a look at what fine copper wire I have in stock. 44SWG is too thin, but 38SWG seems to be perfect. It's possible to hang 4 pieces of it equally spaced around the rim of CS05 and slide CS03 onto it. It seems to provide the exact alignment required without being too tight - slight rotation of CS03 causes the wires to rotate like needle-roller bearings. Save the 4 pieces of wire for later. Apply 2 turns masking tape around CS03 beyond CS04 to make CS02 a firm fit on it. Position assembly and check what angle CS04 can tilt forward before CS02 touches the flange of the cockpit module. Can go at least far enough to see the full thickness of the CS03 flange at the top (about 0.1" tilt over 2" height of CS04). Temporarily assemble CS05, CS06, CS07 to check angle needed - when CS05 is touching the top of the tunnel it's about the same as above, so that should be OK. As the AN970-3 washers come very close to the thigh support ribs, I want to ensure that the horizontal positions of the CS04s allow room for the washers at both sides. Decide to spot through just one upper inboard corner mounting hole on each CS04 in order to preserve that alignment. Hold CS04 in position and mark a line against the top edge on the seat front. Fit short AN3 bolts in upper holes to hold AN970-3 washers against back of CS04 and offer up to rear of seat front. Using bridging pieces across the hole, clamp CS04 in position with inboard AN970-3 washer barely touching the thigh support rib and CS04 top edge lined-up with marked line, as seen from the front through the top of the hole. Remove the inboard bolt and mark through the CS04 mounting hole onto the back of the seat front. Unclamp everything and using the tight-fit drill kit drill the marked hole out to 3/16". Check position of hole with CS04 in correct position on front of seat and AN3-11A bolt inserted. Need to adjust hole slightly away from the floor with a Perma-Grit needle file to allow for the eventual tilt of CS04. Repeat the marking and drilling process for the port CS04 and again correct final alignment with file. Clean up the edges of the 54mm hole to clear CS03. Clean up with file and fine wet-and-dry paper some small nicks in the bearing faces of both CS02s (both were the same - must have been something that happened at manufacture to have been so similar). Arrange a couple of strips of wood and g-clamps to support both CS02s with axes vertical and bearing surfaces horizontal. Degrease bonding surfaces of CS02s and all of CS03s and CS04s. Mix 11.5g + 4.6g fresh Redux (overshot the intended 10+4, but even that would have been far too much) and paint onto inside of CS02s. Assemble each sandwich of CS03, polyethylene sheet collar, CS04 and polyethylene sheet collar and slowly lower into respective CS02. Wipe off excess Redux that is dripping out of the bottom of the assembly. Accidentally nudge one CS03 upwards slightly while doing that and hope it hasn't transferred any Redux to the bore of CS04. Move the whole thing to the airing cupboard to cure overnight with lead weights on the CS03s to keep everything in square contact. 1079.9
19 Checking the CS02/CS03/CS04 assemblies again at about 04:40 reveals that one CS04 is immobile. Twisting with moderate effort frees it though, and once released it swivels without feeling too rough. The other one is silky smooth. Later in the morning the fuel transfer pump arrives from Alan Burrows. Unclamp CS02/CS03/CS04 assemblies, remove polyethylene spacers. Starboard runs free but port is still inclined to bind in places. Coat edge of one polyethylene sheet in wax and slide into bearing area on both sides of CS04. Work it around and after a while it is running smoothly all round. Scrape off excess Redux from one rivet hole with scalpel. Deburr insides of both CS05 with deburring tool and outsides with emery cloth. Clean up outside of one end of each CS05 with 240 & 600 grade wet & dry paper. Cut 4 more pieces of 38SWG copper wire for spacers. Degrease CS05 and CS03 bonding areas with acetone. Fit 4 off 38SWG spacer wires on end of each CS05, with one end hooked inside CS05 and other end held in place with masking tape. Mix 3g + 1.2g fresh Redux (intended 2.5 + 1 but overshot hardener as usual and had to add more resin) and spread on inside of CS03s. Although not called for in manual, also spread some Redux on outside of CS05s between wires to ensure even coverage as we don't want to twist to spread it as that would tend to displace the wires. Slide CS02/03/04 assemblies onto ends of each CS05, taking care not to disturb the wires. Clean up excess Redux and check ends of CS05 and CS03 are aligned. Leave to cure with CS05 horizontal on table and CS02/03/04 assembly hanging free. Turn on one fan heater pointing towards the bonding areas at thermostat setting 3. Mark out and bandsaw off corners of CS06. Smooth and round corners on belt sander. Turn off heater and take part-cured CS02/03/04/05 assemblies in to airing cupboard for further cure overnight. 1082.0
20 Bring CS02/03/04/05 assemblies and Redux sample down from airing cupboard. Clamp CS07 & CS08 together with toolmakers clamps and adjust until bores align. Check alignment by sliding onto CS05. Clamp onto bench drill table using bridging piece across bore. D rill holes in CS07 through existing holes in CS08. Insert AN525-10R12 screws in holes as each is drilled through. Unclamp from drill table and scribe lines on CS07 flange and CS08 corners for trimming. Remove toolmakers clamps. Hacksaw off CS07 flange close to line and file down then smooth off with 240 & 600 grade wet & dry paper. File off CS08 corners and smooth likewise. Re-assemble with screws and plain nuts to keep this set together. Repeat clamping, drilling and trimming process for 2nd CS07/CS08. Notice a couple of small nicks on the edge of both CS08s - possibly transit damage - so dress them out with a fine file and smooth with wet & dry as above. Assemble each CS07/CS08 separately with washers and stiffnuts, painting Duralac onto all mating surfaces. Tighten up stiffnuts and wipe off surplus Duralac with tissue soaked in white spirit. Put a drop of inspector's lacquer on each nut. Start to drill out holes for rivets in CS02/03/05 assembly but break 3.3mm drill bit because (a) used cordless drill and it's not turning fast enough for steel and (b) didn't restrain assembly securely for drilling. Grip CS05 lightly in vise with wood soft-jaws and complete drilling with 3.2mm bit in mains-powered drill running at about 3000rpm - much easier and safer. The rivets fit OK in the 3.2mm holes. Dip rivets in Duralac and pull up. Clear odds and ends off table and invert cockpit module onto it with support plank between headrests. Insert CS02/03/04/05 assemblies and locate them with the single bolts through each CS04. Lightly clamp CS04 to floor flange and bottom edge to seat face. Place wooden wedges in tunnel to support CS05 and adjust for 6mm clearance between CS08 and a flat piece of wood bridging the fuel tank bay. Note that CS06 bushes will need about 6mm removed to clear floor. Also notice that the CS02s appear to be now just touching the flange, so will need a small shim to move CS04 slightly away from it. The port CS05 is angled slightly inboard at the aft end so lateral shimming of that CS04 will be needed too. 1085.6
21 Check fuel transfer pump works by briefly running it dry on bench power supply (no D cells in stock). Put it in trailer, noting that it's barely long enough to reach the bottom of a jerrican. Take CS10, CS11, CS12 & CS16 out of box 10 in trailer. Order some rivets, washers, ACF-50 etc from LAS Aerospace. Degrease CS12 with acetone. Try AN490HT8P rod ends in CS12 but they are not going to go in. Put 4 off 1/4" UNF plain nuts on rod end and use them to hold rod end in bench drill chuck. Run with 80 grit sandpaper held around it. After some time of this with no apparent improvement, put it in the lathe instead and turn it down, advancing cross-slide a total of about 0.15mm in several passes before it will fit. Of course as it's not running perfectly true (it was removed after each pass to check for fit) that does not represent a full 0.3mm reduction in diameter. Repeat with 2nd rod end. Set up vee blocks on bench drill table using one to centre the drill bit on and the 2nd one clamped adjacent for the tube to lie in. Mark both ends of tube 5mm and 10mm in from the end. Insert rod ends and drill through, then try to insert rivet in first hole before drilling 2nd. The 1/8" drill doesn't seem to make a hole big enough for the rivet, although there appears to be some variation between individual rivets. Consider using a number 30 drill to open the hole slightly, but then find that the #30 drill in my Chinese set passes through the hole freely without enlarging it! I think about trying a #29, but find that the one in the #29 position is actually #28, so I have 2 off #28. Ah well, it was a very cheap set of bits! So, back to the problem at hand and by running the 1/8" bit through the hole a few times, it frees up enough to allow a rivet to be pushed in by hand. Use 1st rivet to get 2nd hole at 90 degrees by eye. At other end of tube, forget to line up inserted rivets before starting to drill, so the holes are at about 45 degrees to the first end - a cosmetic irritation. Mark CS12 and rod ends for position and orientation, remove and blow out all swarf with air line. Squirt some zinc chromate primer down inside of CS12 from both ends until completely coated inside. Dip rod ends in Duralac and insert into CS12. Dip rivets in Duralac, insert and set each in turn with 1-ton press. Clean off surplus Duralac with kerosene and dry off. Screw on checknuts and MW4 rod-end bearings. 1087.8
22 LAS Aerospace order arrives, less M4 anchor nuts which were out of stock. Check alignment of CS02/03/04/05/06/07/08 again. Mark and cut off about 6mm of bottom edge of both CS06s and sand smooth. Very careful sighting from front reveals that contrary to Wednesday's assessment, both CS02s are in fact just clear of the cockpit module flange, so shims for that should not really be necessary. A check on the distance apart of the aft ends of CS05s using the flanges on CS10 as a gauge shows they are pretty near without much additional adjustment. Mark the position of the wedges supporting CS05s in the tunnels. 1088.3
25 Find some plastic sheet about 0.011" thick and use a strip of it between each CS04 assembly and cockpit module flange, just to be on the safe side. Also double a piece of plastic and put it between outboard side of port CS04 and seat face to bring aft end of port CS05 nearer centre of tunnel. Check distance apart of aft end of CS05s using CS10 flanges. Add 1 layer plastic behind inboard side of starboard CS04. Insert inboard top corner bolts for horizontal positioning and lightly clamp CS04s up to cockpit module flange, this time with a single central clamp to allow access for drilling. Check CS07/08 clearance and confirm wedges in correct positions. Despite manual advice to drill CS04 holes first, start at aft end with CS06s since CS04s are already well retained in position. Note that required 4.8mm bit is a very tight fit in holes in Tufnol pieces, so will use 4.7mm first so the Tufnol acts as a bush rather than having its bore enlarged. Drill through inboard hole of port CS06 with 4.7mm bit, holding CS06 as orthogonal as possible to CS07 (ie not hard against adjacent uneven cockpit module face). Then follow through with 4.8mm bit. Put AN3-11A bolt in hole to maintain horizontal position and again holding port CS06 in position drill through outboard hole 4.7mm and then 4.8mm. Insert bolt. Check position of starboard CS05 end with CS10 flanges. Drill outboard hole 4.7mm and screw bolt into mouth of hole. Seems to have drifted inboard slightly. Adjust hole position with Perma-Grit needle file until correct alignment with CS10 achieved. Put bolt in hole and holding CS06 pushed outboard at correct angle drill inboard hole 4.7mm. Open to 4.8mm and insert bolt. Check alignment with CS10 - looks perfect - and that CS07/08 clearances still OK. Drill outboard upper hole in port CS04 4.7mm then 4.8mm and insert bolt. Remove outboard clamp and drill outboard lower hole 4.7mm & 4.8mm, insert bolt. Remove inboard clamp and drill inboard lower hole, insert bolt. Repeat process on starboard CS04. Remove wedges. Starboard assembly almost falls to centre under its own weight and falls readily with CS01 added. Port not quite so free. Move cockpit module and table around to get room to try inserting sticks and port side easily falls to centre with stick inserted. It seems OK in isolation, but just feels that bit less free when compared with the very free-moving starboard side. Find during this that one CS16B sleeve is an exceptionally tight fit on either CS16. Don't have a small enough flap wheel as recommended in the manual but running a small sanding drum round the inside of it works well and achieves a good fit quickly. Mark CS07s for rivets and centre-pop them, then realise that there isn't enough clearance for the nose of the riveter to get onto the ones near the assembly screws. Find an offcut of steel rod about 1/4" diameter, chuck in lathe, drill 2.1mm, face, turn true for about 11mm, cut off, reverse in chuck and face to about 9.5mm long. Drill rivet holes 3.2mm in CS07, lining up by eye on vee block. Deburr insides by sliding onto CS05 again. Temporarily assemble CS16, CS16B & CS01 with AN5 bolts and MW5 rod-end bearing to see what clearance is available for cables coming down from the stick grip. Reasonable clearance past main AN5 pivot bolt but not much room around MW5 bearing. Will have to find out what other UK builders have done - seem to recall a recent e-mail thread on the topic but think it was US people posting. 1092.3
27 Phone Ian Rickard about exact position of wing-leveller crank arm. Cut CS13 tube in two using Monument plumbing tube cutter. Deburr insides of ends. Mark for holes. Fit rod ends and clamp end-to-end to prevent rod ends drifting out while drilling. Set up vee-block and clamp as usual for drilling. Drill both ends of both pushrods 3.2mm and ease open by running drill up and down a few times in holes. Mark up with coloured pens to preserve location and orientation. Deburr insides of CS11s and try rod ends for fit. One tube accepts rod ends with little effort but other needs some work to get them in, although no need to put them in the lathe this time. Eventually they fit reasonably enough after some cleaning and repeated insertion and twisting. Mark ends for holes and centre-pop. Clamp in vee-blocks and drill through 3.2mm The pop-rivets won't go in even after a few runs through with the drill. A #28 drill opens it enough but is very snatchy and it breaks in the 2nd hole anyway, so open the rest up a bit more with needle file instead. Mark ends with coloured felt-tips of location and orientation. Push an acetone-soaked tissue through to clean inside of grease and swarf. Spray inside of tube from both ends with zinc chromate aerosol. 1094.8
28 Order some drill bits at Buck & Hickman. Check again positions of CS06/07/08 assemblies and location of wing-leveller crank arm. Dismantle CS05 - CS07/08 assemblies and rub down all bonding areas of CS05s with 600 grade wet-and-dry paper. Degrease CS05, CS07/08 and crank arm/CS03 assembly. Re-assemble torque tube assemblies to cockpit module (with crank arm/CS03 on starboard CS05, CS03 forward), holding in position with bolts through CS04. Put washers and plain nuts lightly on bolts adjacent to flange to ensure CS04s stay against seat front face. Fit CS01s to help sighting verticality. Cut an offcut of chipboard to 3" wide as a gauge for CS08 spacing from seat back. Mix 7.5g + 3g (meant to be 5+2 but just can't control hardener pouring!) of fresh Redux and butter onto aft end of port CS05. Put CS06 onto CS07 (not as far as rivet holes) and slide whole assembly slowly onto CS05, twisting slightly to spread the Redux. Remove and check coverage inside CS07/08. Scrape off with a mixing stick some of the excess Redux that got pushed forward along CS05 and spread it around dry areas inside CS07/08. Slide assembly onto CS05 again and fit bolts loosely to CS06 to keep it in position. Check CS08 position with gauge block and line up CS08 vertically with CS01. Repeat process for starboard side. Slide crank arm/CS03 as far forward as possible to clear bonding area and butter CS05 with Redux, rotating CS05 to get access to hidden side for all-round coverage. Slide crank arm assembly slowly aft, beyond correct position and just past where the edge of the Redux on CS05 becomes visible again. Wipe up excess Redux dripping down crank arm and apply more to CS05 forward of crank arm assembly. Slide and twist crank arm a bit more until satisfied there is good Redux coverage throughout. Line up CS08 & CS01 as for port. Set crank arm vertically in line with CS01 & CS08, and with aft face of crank arm 112.2mm aft of rear face of seat front. Re-check all alignment carefully so as not to disturb anything and leave to cure. 21C, 80% RH. Turn on both fan heaters to thermostat setting 3.5. Degrease inside of CS13 tubes with acetone-soaked tissue and spray zinc chromate into them. Paint rod ends with Duralac and insert. Paint rivets with Duralac and set with 1-ton press. Add nuts and MW4 rod-end bearings. Paint AN490HT10P rod-ends with Duralac in turn and insert into the drilled CS11. Paint rivets with Duralac and set. Add nuts and MW5 rod-end bearings. 1097.9
29 25C, 60% RH; turn off heaters. Collect drill bits from Buck & Hickman. Mark 2nd CS11 for rivet holes and centre-pop outer set (getting them in line this time!). Set up and clamp vee-blocks as usual on drill table. Holding rod end in, drill through 1st hole with new 3.3mm bit. Insert rivet to keep alignment and centre-pop for inner hole at right angle. Drill through. Add a bit of lubrication as the rod-end seems pretty hard to get through. Start to drill outer hole at other end but rod-end twists slightly as drill breaks through tube wall and results in the tube hole becoming slightly oval. Re-position for better alignment of drill and complete without much further bother, although it does seem quite hard going. Insert rivet and centre-pop for final hole, drill with lubricant applied several times. Mark tube ends for orientation, remove rod ends and deburr. Blow and wipe out all swarf from rod ends and push acetone-soaked tissue through tube. Spray inside of tube with zinc chromate aerosol. Dip rod ends in Duralac and insert. Dip rivets in Duralac, insert and pull up. Add nuts and bearings. Take locating bolts out of CS04s & CS06s to allow free movement of torque tubes. Put the 3.3mm bit in the mains-powered portable drill and start to drill out the rivet holes in CS05 through the guide holes in the CS03 attached to the wing-leveller crank arm. The bit seems to stop cutting part-way into the 2nd hole despite lubricant and considerable pressure. Just as an experiment, switch to the older 3.2mm bit and it goes through quite easily! Continue with that bit for the rest of the holes in CS03 and the CS07s. Open up CS07 holes with 3.3mm bit; CS03 are OK at 3.2mm as the rivets for them (AGS2050-424BS, equivalent to TLPD-424BS) came from LAS Aerospace and are slightly smaller than the apparently identical items from Europa. Deburr inside of CS05s as far as possible & push acetone-soaked tissue through both CS05s. Dip rivets in Duralac and start to pull them up, but hand getting tired so turn on compressor and switch to air riveter which makes things much easier. The nose extension made to get the nose of the hand rivet pliers clear of the screws on CS07/08 also works fine with the air riveter. Wipe off surplus Duralac with kerosene-soaked tissue and dry off. Put a smear of wax on CS06/CS07 bearing areas. 1100.2
30 Wax all areas of CS03s and CS07s adjacent to the flox pad bonding area. Wax adjacent faces of CS04s and CS06s. (Contrary to the manual, CS04 & CS06 do not need to bond to the flox pads.) Wax all bolts, washers and nuts for the assembly. Clear the epoxy pump spouts and mix a 2-stroke batch of the older epoxy (as the flox pads are in compression, ultimate epoxy strength is not essential). Add 3 doses flox to make a really dry and stiff mixture. Start to butter it onto the edge of CS04 and realise I have forgotten to roughen the bonding areas on the cockpit module, so stop and do that now with fine Perma-Grit flexible sheet. Butter flox mixture around all fixing holes on CS04s & CS06s. Move torque tubes into position and locate with bolts. Scrape out with a split mixing stick some bits of flox that are migrating across CS04 towards CS03. Fit AN970-3 washers and lightly do up plain nuts to hold narrow edge of CS04 against cockpit module at flange. Go around all edges of CS04s and CS06s tidying up flox into reasonably-neat fillets. Check for free movement of torque tubes and leave to cure. 24C, 69% RH so turn on both fan heaters at thermostat 3.6, and turn on dehumidifier. 1101.6
31 25C, 50% RH; turn off heaters & dehumidifier.

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