Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2020 12

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1 Position anchor nuts at aft corners of the FCFL offcut laminate to keep the rivet holes within the boundary of the laminate. Mark through the anchor nuts for hole positions. Drill the marked spots 2.8mm. Open to 8mm, working from both side to prevent splinter. Degrease the aluminium bushes in acetone and dry off. Check how the bushes fit in the holes and relieve slightly with taper reamer. Mix a small batch of Evo-Stik Control epoxy and apply to inner faces of holes in laminate. Also apply to outsides of bushes, pressing into sawcuts. Insert bushes into holes. Wipe off excess epoxy. Clamp between 2 small pieces of melamine-faced chipboard, with polyethylene sheet interposed as a release film. Take the assembly in to the boiler cupboard to cure overnight. 3410.4
2 Take FCFL piece out of boiler cupboard and unclamp. Epoxy well cured.

Conspicuity device rebate from CAA appears in my bank account.

3 Clean out some epoxy weeps from the bush holes in the compass support arm FCFL piece with a 4.8mm drill bit. Fit it temporarily to the overhead panel with a 10-32 screw and plain nut. Align the straight edge of the support with the fore-and-aft axis of the panel and clamp in place. Drill through the aft bushed holes 4.8mm. Remove compass support arm from overhead panel. Fit 2 off MS21047-3 anchor nuts to panel with short screws. Drill through the rivet holes 2.4mm. 3410.8
5 Cut away small areas of leathercloth on the overhead panel, around each of the rivet holes for the compass mounting arm anchor nuts. With a handheld 10mm drill bit, countersink the holes for the rivet heads. Fit the anchor nuts with temporary short screws. Fit and set the rivets and remove the temporary screws. Check spacing of starboard anchor nut from the overhead panel mounting hole and cut off a corner of the bracket in the fuselage roof to clear it.

Find from stock a piece of 8mm round brass bar for making bushes on the compass mounting holes in the compass mounting arm. Cut off about 30mm.

Remove the modified bracket from the compass for access to the mounting holes. Drill through the adhesive pad 3.1mm. Position the bracket on the mounting arm and mark hole positions on the arm through the holes with a deep-hole marker.
7 NTE4 transformer delivered from CPC . Need to think about how it will be mounted.
8 Chuck the piece of 8mm round brass bar in the lathe & face off. Centre drill and drill 2mm, about 16mm deep. Open to 3.2mm, 16mm deep. Check thickness of compass mounting arm at forward end. Part off brass bush 6.1mm. Re-chuck workpiece further out and re-face. Part off another 6.1mm. 3412.4
9 Deburr the parted-off ends of the brass bushes. Make small hacksaw cuts around the outside of both bushes to key the adhesive. Drill through the marked holes in the compass mounting arm 2mm then open to 8mm. Mix a small batch of Evo-Stik Control epoxy and apply to holes in arm and to outsides of bushes. Insert bushes into arm. Wipe off excess epoxy. Cover the arm with polyethylene sheet and clamp the end with the brass bushes between 2 small pieces of melamine-faced chipboard. Bring the assembly in to the boiler cupboard to cure overnight. 3413.0
10 The sample of epoxy is still quite leathery so leave it all in the boiler cupboard to see if it will cure to a stiffer state.

Lead the bunch of wires from the overhead conduit through the grommet into the headset socket box. Strip and terminate wires 214 & 215 with fellow female blade crimps. Strip and terminate wire 615 with a red female blade crimp and 616 with a red male blade crimp.

Bring soldering iron down from office to garage in preparation for making the remaining connexions to the headset sockets.

Print labels for headset sockets and for speaker & line out sockets onto metallic base material.
11 Epoxy sample still quite flexible but obviously cured so take the compass mounting arm out of the boiler cupboard, unclamp it and take it down to the garage.

Affix the metallic labels to the headset socket box and to the side of the F14 Instrument Module, degreasing with methylated spirit before applying.

Strip and solder wires 409 and 410 to the P2 phone socket, covering the screen with heatshrink sleeving. Secure the wires to the solder tags with small cable-ties, to support the solder joints from movement. Likewise strip & solder wires 423, 414 & 418 to the P2 mic socket.
12 Strip and solder wires 407 & 408 to the P1 phone socket in the same way as for P2 socket yesterday. However, when dressing the screen (wire 408) back along the solder tag and securing it with a cable tie, the joint seems to give unexpectedly. Check continuity with the meter from the other end of the wire and it is indeed broken. Remove cable tie and remove heatshrink sleeve. Decide that in fact the heatshrink is more of a liability than an asset. Re-make the solder joint and replace the cable tie. Check continuity - OK now. Check continuity of the other wires soldered so far and they are all OK too.

In the same way, strip, solder and secure wires 411, 412 & 416 to the P1 mic socket.

Connect wires 214 and 215 to the power outlet, and wires 615 & 616 to the stall warner sounder. Dress all the wires within the socket box and secure them in bunches with cable ties.

Notice that some of the wires from the socket box are not very generous at the forward end for dressing neatly, although they would reach the comm radio in a straight line. The bundle from the overhead panel can probably be eased forward a bit to help with that.
14 Check the continuity of the wiring on the P1 mic socket forward to the other end of the wires - all OK.

Fit the lid on the socket box.

Get into the baggage bay and feed the wire bundle, with its braided sleeve, further into the roof conduit. Draw the bundle out a short distance at the aft end of the conduit, until the service loop between the conduit and the overhead panel is somewhat shorter but still adequate for later access if required. Draw the wires down the curved conduit, leaving them looped between the curved conduit and the fuselage side conduit. At the forward end of the cockpit conduit, draw the wires forward one by one until the excess loops are drawn in, then up into the F14 Instrument Module. Also draw the wire for the stall warner forward and down into the starboard seatpan. Note that wires 214, 215, & 616 will need to be re-terminated as they now have excess length at the IM end.

Fit the overhead panel with 10-32 x 5/8" button-head stainless steel screws and M5 penny washers. Fit the compass mounting arm to check how it looks, with 2 off 5/8" screws and one 3/4" screw.
15 Print new labels for wires 214, 215, & 616 which will need to be re-terminated, also for wire 529 whose label was cut out in error.
16 Cut off to new length, label and terminate wires 214, 215, & 616. Tidy up wire bundles in fuseblock area and fit some cable ties.

Dress all the trailing wires out of the F14 Instrument Module into the footwells. Position the temporary support shelf for the instrument panels.

Remove the compass mounting arm.
17 Separate wire 126 out from the firewall bundle and draw it across to the fuseblock area. Cut, label, terminate and fit to fuse A1.

I seem to have run out of 20AWG stock. Order 10m from Parts For Aircraft , and also some 22AWG as the reel of that is getting low.

Cut to approximate length, label and attach wire 116 to the starter-engaged LED black flying lead with a red butt splice crimp. Similarly attach wire 129 to the crowbar LED black lead. Crimp red male blades to all 8 LED red flying leads. Crimp red female blades to the remaining 6 LED red leads.

Check the length needed for the earth wires to the TN72 GPS source and cut 2 lengths as wires 533 & 534. Get out the crimper for the D sub-min inserts and change the spacer from pin to socket. Crimp socket inserts onto wires 533 & 534. Insert them into positions 5 & 2 of the shell respectively. Draw wire 535 out of the general bundle and check the length needed to the TN72 connector, cut and label. Separate wire 504 from the laced bundle coming from the TT21 transponder and similarly cut to length and label. Slide a piece of adhesive heatshrink sleeve over wires 504 & 535. Slide wires 533 & 534 through the same sleeve, add small heatshrink sleeves for labels, and put tape flags on the ends of the wires. Crimp socket insert on wire 504 and fit it to position 7 in the shell. Crimp socket on wire 535 and fit it to position 1. Slide the adhesive-lined heatshrink down towards the shell and shrink it while forming a nice bend to exit the side of the hood. Label wires 533 & 534 at both ends and crimp red female blades to the free ends. Assemble the hood to the shell. Fit to TN72 and do up screws. Fit wires 533 & 534 to common earth point.
18 Review termination methods for warning LED flying leads and decide that several can be butt splices rather than blade connectors. Cut off the blade connectors and replace with butt splices on both red and black flying leads of the LED warning lights for CHT (E-3), oil (TP-3), battery (BAT-1) and clock (RTC-2). Change the connector on the black lead of the fuel (FF-1) LED from blade to splice. The red lead will need to be commoned with other wires so leave it for now.

Check what other wires could be conveniently terminated before starting to connect the wires on the main instrument panel.

Cut to length 22AWG for wire 314. Try to crimp the 4.8mm red female blade supplied with the hourmeter, but it will not close onto the wire. Discard and use a better one from the stock drawer. Label the wire and fit to tab 2 of the hourmeter. Add a tape flag to the free end of the wire.

The battery and alternator feeds have not yet been connected to the busbars. Wire 108 is already pretty exactly the right length to reach the battery busbar. Label it and crimp on a 4mm yellow ring. Cut wire 117 to length for the alternator busbar, label and crimp a 4mm yellow ring on it. Remove the empty ring terminals that I had parked on the busbars and fit wires 108 & 117 to busbars with M4 button-head screws (2.5mm hex key).

Cut 22AWG stock to length for wire 603, label and terminate with red female blade. Put tape flag on free end. Fit to trim fuseholder on sub-panel and draw free end across to radio panel aperture.
19 Cut the free end of wire 614 to length, label and terminate with red female blade crimp. Fit to stall warner fuseholder on sub-panel.

Note that the BAT-1 black wire will stretch to the common earth point so does not need to be extended. Amend the file bat1.cadx and the wirebook. Delete wire 308 from the wire database.
21 Label with wire 308 earth label and terminate BAT-1 black wire and fit to earth point.

Note that the black lead from the fan will also reach to the earthing tabs without extension so wire 210 can be removed from diagrams and wire database. Label the fan black wire with wire 210 earth label, terminate, and fit it to the earth point.
22 20AWG & 22AWG wire delivered from Parts for Aircraft.

Having changed my mind again about the requirement for easy disconnexion, cut off all the unconnected butt splices on the warning LED flying leads and replace them with male (on the red leads) and female (on the black leads) red blade crimp connectors.

Cut to length 22AWG stock and make up wire 310 with label and red butt splice at one end and tape flag at the other.
23 Print onto metallic label stock the LED labels for the back of the main panel.
24 Apply the LED labels to the back face of the main panel.

Climb across into the port seat and slide under the temporary support shelf. Cut to length, label and terminate wires 315, 316, 317 & 318 to the red, black, orange and green wires respectively of the MGL E-3. Connect prepared wire 310 to blue wire and draw it across to the radio panel aperture. All connexions are butt splices except wire 315 where both wires are commoned into a single red female blade to mate with the male on the LED flying lead. Cut and fold back E-3 brown wire and shrink a sleeve on it for insulation. Fit a small cable tie on the E-3 bunch of wires.
30 Cut to length matching others and crimp a red male blade to E-3 white wire.

Cut out the labels for the TP-3 wires and after creasing put them in the cockpit ready for use, with all the necessary tools and materials. Climb across into the port seat and slide under the temporary support shelf. Label and connect the TP-3 wires: black to wire 335, orange to 336, green to 337 and grey to 349, with butt splices. Crimp red and wire 338 in a single female red blade. Terminate white with a male red blade. Shorten, fold and sleeve the unused wires red/yellow, purple and pink. Fit a small cable tie on the TP-3 bunch of wires.
31 Cut the labels for the BAT-1 wires and after creasing them climb into the cockpit.

Label and terminate BAT-1 wires (except black which is already connected to the earth point). White to a red male blade; red crimped with wire 309 in a red female blade; orange to wire 307 and green to 306 in butt splices.

Fit small cable ties to all 3 of the sub-panel MGL instrument bundles.

Climb out, cut labels 207 & 208, climb in. Label and crimp wire 208 to fan red. Cut to length, label, terminate and fit wires 207 & 208 to the fan switch.

Climb out, cut labels 201 & 202, climb in. Cut, label, terminate and fit wires 201 and 202 to the strobe switch.

Now there are 249 of 442 wire ends terminated so well over half-way.

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