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Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2020 11

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5 Measure length of wire required for stick-top switches. Inside stick 500mm (to provide enough length for mating outside stick); stick to floor 150mm; front of thigh support 150mm; floor on port side of tunnel 450mm; port side of tunnel up firewall 450mm; across F14 Instrument Module 300mm; out to radio panel 600mm - total 2600mm, for wires 435, 436, 611, 612 & 613.

Lift port seatpan foam block to measure length of wire required for fuel level (weight) sensor. Notice that the piece of braided sleeving I glued in place has collapsed where glued and may need to be replaced if I can't draw the wires through it. In seatpan for termination 200mm; through thigh support 300mm; floor on port side of tunnel 450mm; port side of tunnel up firewall 450mm; across IM 300mm; out to radio panel 600mm - total 2300mm, for wires 320, 321 & 322.

Measure and cut 3 lengths of 22AWG stock 2300mm, and 5 lengths 2600mm.

Print duplicate copies of all the above wire labels (spares needed for the free end in the IM). Label, with numbers only, the 5 wires for the port stick. Those wires will probably need to be drawn in down from the IM end, as they need to go into the stick base from the outside - it would be tricky to insert them into the sleeved hole from the inside. Also, will need to carry them in braided sleeving between the stick base and the conduit. The wires for the fuel level sensor could probably go either way but I feel that it would be easiest to take them forward and up from the seatpan. 		3386.8
6 Start to put labels on the other ends of the 5 wires for the P1 stick, but realise the labelling is ambiguous. Edit the wiring database and re-print those labels.

Label the stick ends of wires 435, 436, 611, 612, & 613. Attach all 5 of the stick ends of the wires to a short length of 12AWG with adhesive-lined heatshrink sleeving. Draw the assembly down through the port middle bush of the F14 Instrument Module and into the conduit down the corner of the port footwell. At the bottom, the leader is too stiff to go around the bend so draw it out then re-insert it into the conduit along the base of the tunnel. Likewise at the corner with the thigh support. Cut off a suitable length of braided sleeving and thread the bundle of wires through it. Cut off the heatshrink sleeve and push the wires one by one into the sleeved hole in the CS01 stick base. Draw the bunch up. Check against the stick length that the wires will project far enough out of the top of the stick for the labels to be read. Put the pneumatic crimper and its footswitch in the cockpit. Strip the wires and crimp a red male blade on each one. Slide the bunch of connectors into the stick and drop it into CS01 to check wire lengths. Pull the bundle back into the IM slightly to reduce the amount of unnecessary slack inside the stick. Remove the stick and slide the bundle of wires out again. Slide the new length of sleeving into the split sleeve at the base of CS01 and secure both layers to the wire bundle with a couple of small cable ties. 		3389.0
7 Consider the possibility of adding a Trig TN72 GPS position source to make the transponder ADS-B out more useful. This is prompted somewhat by the CAA rebate scheme for conspicuity devices. Download the manuals for TN72 and its TA50 antenna to check installation possibilities. Both are quite small, so should be able to find somewhere to put them, although there is no more room on top of the F14 Instrument Module for another GPS antenna.

Shrink labels on both ends of wires 301, 302 & 303 - numbers only at the top ends, and full labels at the bottom (seatpan) ends. The collapsed sleeve at the aft side of the thigh support in the port seatpan is easily opened up using the SteinAir wire spoon tool. [Incidentally this has been the preferred tool for putting a crease line on the back of the labels so they will easily bend slightly for insertion into the heatshrink sleeves.] Poke wire 301 into the sleeve and it goes forward easily. It won't bend sharply enough to continue forward in the conduit along the bottom of the tunnel because of the label heatshrink. Pull a length of it out instead ready for pushing into the conduit. Similarly push in wire 302 but it baulks at the end of the sleeve and I can't get a hold on it. Pull both wires back and try pushing all 3 wires through together, but again one resists so pull them all back again. Apply a short length of heatshrink to the bunch to keep them together and try again. That works much better, but once the bunch is pulled out of the sleeve in the thigh support, I can't persuade it to enter the conduit along the base of the tunnel. Pass a length of the heavy nylon leader down through the IM bush and through both sections of conduit on the side of the tunnel. Join it to the wire bunch with heatshrink and quite easily draw the wires forward & up into the IM. Cut off the leader.

Note that one of the clips securing the conduit at the base of the tunnel has debonded so will need to fix that.

Post a query on AeroElectric Matronics e-mail list about whether to site a GPS antenna underneath the fuselage roof structure. A reply suggests the obvious - check GPS signal strength and quality in & out of fuselage! Thinking more about wiring for the TN72 it really needs to be in the IM so there is no point in having the antenna in the fuselage overhead. Instead, it could be mounted slightly to starboard of the panel area, above the parcel shelf, on a bracket bonded to the underside of the fuselage skin. Find an offcut of pre-preg that seems stiff enough for the job.

While looking through the offcuts bin, come across the piece of laminated FCFL left over from the flap joining rib that looks suitably long and stiff for use as a compass mount. The longer compass mount bracket will need to be shortened, as the shorter one will not align with the compass base. 		3390.0
9 Order a Trig TN72 with TA50 antenna from Mendelssohn .

Find a plastic lid that can be used to protect the wire connexions in the port seatpan. Rout out the blue foam a bit more with the Dremel held freehand to accommodate the lid. Make a couple of notches in the edge of the lid for wire entry. Terminate wires 301-303 in the seatpan. Roll up the ends of wires 301-303 inside the lid, place on seatpan and position blue foam block to check fit - all seems fine.

Hacksaw one way off a 4-way Cinch terminal strip to serve as a commoning point for the USB power outlet wiring. Check the proposed location for it adjacent to the fuseblocks. Drill 4mm for fixings using the IXO screwdriver as space is tight. Fit with 2 off 6-32 x 5/8" button-head stainless steel screws (5/64" hex key) and Nyloc nuts.

Take both flying leads of the single USB power outlet through a ferrite toroid and wrap each twice around in opposite directions. Terminate the flying leads with blade connectors.

Add new wire 238 in wire labelling database and on misc.cadx diagram, between Cinch terminal strip and USB single power outlet supply lead.

Add Trig TN72 & TA50 to TT21.cadx drawing and add wires 533 - 535 to wire label database.

Remove wire 504 from TRX2000.cadx drawing.

Update wirebook with changes, but realise I haven't added the TN72 to the main diagram - will do that another day as it's getting late now. 		3391.9
10 Edit main circuit diagram to show TN72 and save it as V12. Amend wirebook and upload to website; reprint edited pages and replace in binder.

Cut a length of 10AWG suitable for wire 205 and crimp a 10mm yellow ring onto it. Cut a length of 18AWG suitable for wire 211 and crimp a 3mm red ring onto it. 		3392.0
11 Print labels for all wires with unterminated ends - a total of 178 out of 220; of those, 91 are unterminated at both ends, so there is a lot of work to do!

Label ring end of wire 211. Offer up to check length and cut. Label and terminate with red female blade. Fit to fuseblock B9, dress to fit and attach to Cinch terminal strip. Check lengths required for wires 216 and 238 and cut from 18AWG stock. Terminate and label the supply ends and fit tape flags to the other ends. Fit both rings to the spare end of the Cinch terminal strip and lead the free ends out of the F14 Instrument Module apertures.

Dress wire 205 in place to check required length and cut. Stripping the free end with the Pro's Kit stripper causes a nick in the insulation where it was gripped. Discard the wire and cut a fresh length. Check the stripper again on an offcut and it is difficult not to damage the insulation. Try with the Channellock strippers and although not so fast & convenient that works OK, with no risk of insulation damage. Make up wire 205 again with labels and terminations. Cut a length of 10AWG for wire 213. Label and terminate it at the supply end, with a tape flag at the other end. Fit wire 205 to fuseblock A7. Fit wires 205, 213, & 214 to the 3/8 x 16 UNC terminal post and secure with the spring washer and 9/16" AF nut. 		3393.9
12 TN72 & TA50 delivered from Mendelssohn .

Check size of TN72 against the inner face of the retract lever recess. It would fit perfectly with the connexions at the top, but they would foul the TRX-2000. Turned so the connexions are at the starboard side, towards the radio panel, the mounting tabs are too tall for the available flat surface. Would need to fit some sort of intermediate bracket or mounting plate.

Apply for a CAA portal account so that I can then apply for the conspicuity devices rebate.
13 Check the thickness of the discarded retract lever - about 5mm. That would provide plenty of meat for tapping M3. Could cut a couple of strips off it and tap them for M3 screws, one set of holes for fixing to the F14 Instrument Module and the wider set for fixing the TN72.
14 Draw up proposed mounting strips for TN72 using CADintosh . They will be 5mm x 8mm x 80mm and thus should weigh about 9 grams each, so not too much of a weight penalty. The holes will be at 72mm and 42mm centres.

Order some brass screws for securing the compass from Teknipart . Order some M3 screws for securing the TN72 GPS source from ModelFixings . Order a spotfacer for modifying the compass bracket from Tracy Tools . Order some bushes for the TA50 antenna lead, and some plugs for the throttle friction adjustment hole in TH01, from Vital Parts .
16 Hacksaw out the central web of the longer SIRS compass mounting bracket and file inner faces flush. Offer up to compass and mark through its holes with scriber for new holes on bracket. Cut off excess length of bracket arms and round corners slightly with a file. Centre-pop and centre drill the marked hole position, with offcut inserted between leaves for support. Drill through 5mm.

Cut off bent part of redundant LG12 retract lever. On the straight piece scribe a line 8m in from the edge with the oddleg caliper. Hacksaw it off well clear of the line and cut into 2 pieces about 85mm long. File off burrs. Set both pieces edge-up, side-by-side in the milling vise on wavy parallels. With a 12mm end mill, take the workpieces down to 8mm depth. Mill off ends to bring the parts to 80mm long. 		3396.2
17 Spotfacers delivered from Tracy Tools .

Brass screws, nuts & washers delivered from Teknipart .

Mount the 2 pieces of 80mm x 8mm aluminium in the milling vise on top of each other, with wavy parallels underneath and a piece of card against the moving jaw to ensure they are both well gripped.

With a 2.5mm drill bit in the chuck, find the back edge using the usual cigarette paper method. Then wind the workpieces clear of the bit on the X-axis and wind the Y-axis in 1.25mm (50 graduations) to bring the drill centreline onto the back edge of the workpieces. Wind in another 4mm (2 turns of 80 graduations each) on the Y-axis to bring the drill onto the centreline of the workpieces.

Wind the X-axis in to find the LH edge of the workpieces. Lift the head on the Z-axis to bring the drill bit clear of the workpieces. Wind in X-axis 1.25mm (50 graduations) to centre drill on LH end of workpieces. Wind in X-axis 4mm (2 turns of 80 graduations each) and drill. Wind in X-axis 4mm (2 turns of 80 graduations each) and drill. Alas, looking at the hole position it appears I've miscounted somehow - the hole is noticeably nearer to the front edge than the back (later measured with ruler as 3mm, 5mm instead of 4mm, 4mm). However, although aesthetically unpleasing it will be mechanically OK so carry on. Wind in X-axis 15mm (7 turns of 80 graduations each plus 40 graduations) and drill. Wind in X-axis 42mm (21 turns of 80 graduations each) and drill. Wind in X-axis 15mm (7 turns of 80 graduations each plus 40 graduations) and drill.

Unclamp and clean off edges with a fine file. Before spending time tapping the holes, check the end hole positions against the TN72 holes in case they are not correct either, but they are perfect. Tap the 8 holes M3, clean up hole entries with a large drill bit hand-held, and clean up the workpieces with petrol to remove the Trefolex tapping lubricant.

Open the hole in the modified compass mounting bracket and the support offcut to 5.5mm to admit the pilot on the 10mm spotfacer. Set up on drill table and gently counterbore one face of the bracket. Check fit of shakeproof washer - looks perfect with serrations just above surface. Turn over and repeat on other face; as the depth control is entirely manual this one turns out a tiny bit deeper but still looks OK when washer tested in it. Check the fit on the compass; it's bit tight so dis-assemble and deepen the shallower counterbore ever so slightly. Now the fit is good. Assemble the bracket onto the compass and check access for fixing screws - should be room for Allen key on both screws when compass swung out of the way.

CAA portal account activated; request that the EC rebate service be added to my account and that is confirmed. 		3397.9
18 Cut off a length of 14AWG stock for wire 201. About to cut out label for supply end, then notice it shows fuse A2 not A3 as it should be. Can't reprint immediately as computer is in process of major upgrade, so alter it in manuscript with 0.1mm profipen. Terminate and label supply end of wire 201. Put tape flag on free end. Fit to fuseblock on A3.

Similarly cut, terminate, label, and install on fuseblocks wires 401 (18AWG, fuse C1); 701 (20AWG, fuse A4); 207 (20AWG, fuse B8); 511 (20AWG, fuse A8); 535 (22AWG, fuse C6); and 523 (20AWG, C3). 		3399.6
20 Complete conspicuity devices rebate application on CAA portal.

Bushes and plugs delivered from Vital Parts ; M3 screws delivered from ModelFixings .

Fit mounting bars to TN72 with M3 x 5mm stainless steel button-head screws (2mm hex key) and Loctite 243. Cut out the paper template and hold in place in the retract lever recess with masking tape. Pierce through the inner hole centres with a square awl to make a visible mark.
21 Fit TN72 to back of retract lever recess in F14 Instrument Module with 4 off M3 stainless steel M3 x 6mm button-head screws, washers and Loctite 243.

Check length of SmartASS flying leads and find that they are long enough to reach without extension, so the separate wires 420, 529 & 530 are redundant. Will need to make fresh labels for the ends of the SmartASS flying leads.

Get out the TRX-2000 cable and it is also long enough to reach to the fuseblocks, although it will need to be stripped into individual cores to also reach the common earth point. Thus wires 526, 527 & 528 are redundant and new labels will be needed for the ends of the TRX-2000 cable inners.

Can't find the NTE4 transformer to check the length of its flying leads.

Cut off a suitable length of 20AWG stock and terminate, label and fit to fuse A6 as wire 803. Likewise cut, terminate, label & fit wire 807 (18AWG, fuse A5).

Wire 348 (supplied in factory fuel gauge kit, mod 60) seems about the right length already. Cut off the fitted ring terminal at the supply end. Label both ends, crimp red female blade at supply end and fit to fuse B6. 		3402.8
23 Amend SmartASS wiring diagram to eliminate the extensions on the flying leads, renumbering the flying leads as wires 420, 529 & 530.

Cut 22AWG stock to length for wire 329. Terminate and shrink on label at supply end, add tape flag at free end and fit to fuse B5. Similarly cut, terminate label and fit wires 323 (fuse B7), 334 (fuse B1), 309 (fuse B4), 338 (fuse B3) and 315 (fuse B2).

Notice that the E3 wiring diagram, and the wiring database, will need amendment as the tacho supply and earth leads will need to be extended.

Notice that one of the clips holding the starboard strobe cable to the outside of the fuselage has debonded and fallen off. Tuck it in beside the other one; I will have to warm up the garage for a session of clip bonding, as the 90-second stuff doesn't seem to like the low temperatures at which it has recently been mixed, and there are several clips to do. 		3403.9
24 Start to amend wiring diagram e3.cadx and the wiring database. Find that the database has the wires 311 & 312 already present, although the terminations are incorrectly shown as blades rather than the required butts. Correct all the tacho terminations. Realise that the csc1.cadx diagram already has the correct tacho wiring, and amend e3.cadx to match. Amend csc1.cadx to show correct firewall location for MPS-1 wires, and 22AWG for tacho supply.

Update the wirebook with the drawings amended recently.

Fit the overhead panel with 10-32 x 1/2" stainless steel button-head screws.

Open trailer and unload the stuff at the tail end for access. Get out the windscreen and carefully unwrap it on the patio where there is plenty of room. Carry it in to the garage and offer it up to the cockpit aperture. It doesn't quite fit but will sit reasonably safely on the lower ledge. Offer up the FCFL offcut against the roof panel (clear of the screw to keep it level) and slide forwards until just clear of the windscreen. Mark the position of the front edge of the roof panel on the FCFL piece. That gives about 210mm length beyond the edge of the roof panel. Carefully remove and re-pack the windscreen. Store it back in the trailer, re-load the other stuff and close up.

Amend the trx2000.cadx diagram and the wiring database to show the flying leads going all the way to the terminations without extensions. Update the wirebook and upload it to the website. Re-print the changed pages for the binder.

Update the wiring database with all the recently-made terminations.

As I still can't find the NTE4 transformer, order another one from CPC ; that seems the best way to make the original turn up! 		3405.5
25 Mark the forward end of the FCFL laminate with the width of the compass mounting bracket foot. Cut to that line and smooth off with Perma-Grit block. Mark and cut off aft end of FCFL square and round corners. Consider whether it would be good to have metal inserts in the foam laminate to prevent it getting crushed by the fixing screws.

Remove overhead panel. Undo lid of headset connector box. Consider some aluminium coat-hangers for use as headset hangers. Get a headset down from the loft to check how it might fit. All looks fine if the hooks are positioned well aft on the sides of the box, to keep the headsets clear of the plugs. Hacksaw off the unrequired sections of the coat-hangers and smooth the cut ends. Looks like M3 x 12mm CSK screws will be good for fixing them to the box. 		3406.8
26 Order some stainless steel M3 x 12mm CSK screws, stiffnuts and washers from ModelFixings .

Check thickness of FCFL compass mounting piece with overhead panel and anchor nut. Looks like 10-32 x 3/4" screws would be OK for fixing, and I have some of that length in stock. For sleeves around the screws to prevent crushing of the laminate, I have some 8mm aluminium round bar, and 8mm x 1mm tube. The latter is a slightly loose fit on a 10-32 screw, and the bore is not very true anyway. Probably nicer to pop a bit of solid bar in the lathe and drill, to make a better fit. The sleeves will need to be faced to an accurate length in the lathe anyway.
27 Mark up the FCFL laminate for the first fixing hole, to use the forward fixing screw of the overhead panel. Check the laminate thickness - slightly variable, but around 6.5mm.

While clearing stuff off the lathe cover in preparation for making the bushes for the FCFL fixing holes, find that I have some other single coathooks that could be used for the headsets. Compare them with the cut-off one and indeed one of them is slightly longer and so provides a marginally better and more secure fit for the headset headbands. Deepen the countersinks on a pair of them to better seat M4 CSK screws; the M3 screws I ordered to fit the other hooks will no longer be needed! Mark through the fixing holes in the hooks onto the sides of the headset socket box. Centre-pop and drill 4.5mm. I want to use M4 penny washers inside the box, but they will foul each other and an internal rib, so grind off the sides of 2 penny washers to give clearance when fitted adjacent to the bottom of the box. Fit the hooks to the box with M4 x 16mm stainless steel CSK screws (2.5mm hex key), the penny washers and Nyloc nuts (7mm AF). File reliefs on the lip of the box lid to clear the unmodified washers, and mark it internally for orientation. Re-fit the lid. 		3408.3
28 The (now-redundant) M3 screws etc delivered from ModelFixings .

Hacksaw off a length of the 8mm aluminium round bar and chuck it in the lathe. Face off and centre drill. Drill 2mm for about 30mm and drill out to 4.8mm. Part off at 6.5mm. Move the workpiece further out of the chuck, part off another 6.5mm and repeat once more for the 3rd and final piece. Deburr the holes. Roughen the outsides of each bush with a few diagonal strokes of the hacksaw to provide a key for adhesive. Drill the FCFL piece 2mm at the marked spot for the overhead panel fixing screw and open up to 8mm. 		3409.4
30 Cut, terminate, label and fit to fuseblock wires 110 (20AWG, fuse A2), 311 (22AWG, fuse A9) & 313 (22AWG, fuse A10).

That leaves only wires 126 (fuse A1), 509 (fuse C2), 527 & 536 (fuse C5), and 529 (fuse C4), not yet connected to the fuseblocks. They are already captive at their other ends and will get cut to length when doing the wiring associated with those ends. 		3409.8
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