Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2023 08

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day	notes	hours
12	Start to update the cushion cover sewing templates, based on the latest foam block decisions. The Temper Foam blocks are unchanged: 1 off Temper Foam 455 x 405 x 100 (2 blocks in cover) template 455 + 100 + 25 = 580 by 810 + 200 + 25 = 1035 1 zip 600mm 2 off Temper Foam 455 x 405 x 50 (1 block each cover) template 455 + 50 + 25 = 530 by 810 + 100 + 25 = 935 2 zips 600mm But the others are now: 2 off memory foam 455 x 455 x 70 (1 block each cover) template 455 + 70 + 25 = 550 by 910 + 140 + 25 = 1075 2 zips 600mm 1 off reconstituted foam 300 x 450 x 100 (1 block each cover) template 450 + 100 + 25 = 575 by 600 + 200 + 25 = 825 1 zip 600mm 2 off reconstituted foam 300 x 450 x 50 (1 block each cover) template 450 + 50 + 25 = 525 by 600 + 100 + 25 = 725 2 zips 600mm 2 off reconstituted foam trapezoidal 300 x 450 (tapering to 200) x 50 (1 block each cover) 2 zips 600mm
15	Complete the changes to the cushion cover templates in CADintosh. Order new reconstituted foam blocks in 6-lb density: 1 off 300mm x 450mm x 100mm; 2 off 300mm x 450mm x 50mm; 2 off trapezoidal 300mm x 450mm tapering to 200mm x 100mm.
16	Re-check that the 6m length of fabric I bought will be sufficient for the latest proposals. The templates are each around 500mm x 1000mm. There would be plenty of room for 2 of the 500mm dimension across the 1440mm width of the fabric. At the latest count there are 10 covers required, which would occupy about 5m in total length, thus there is 1m spare.
17	Reconstituted foam blocks delivered. They weigh 4.3kg in total.
28	Open trailer and remove trolley, box of blue foam, & starboard door for access. Take out upper cowl. Cut off the recessed flange at the edge of the starboard access hole using the MiniTool jigsaw. Check space for hinge - not enough yet for knuckle - should have cut beyond the edge of the recess. File back the edge with a tungsten carbide file and then (because progress is slow) with the powerfile. Straighten edge with TC file and short Perma-Grit block. Chamfer underneath to accept curve of hinge at knuckle. Likewise chamfer straight edge of hatch cover. Hinge is slightly long for the space so file off a little. Extract hinge pin and file it shorter, smoothing ends. Check fit of hinge with hatch in place, offering up hinge from underneath. Slot is very slightly wider than needed but looks acceptable. Mark a line slightly back from the edge of the recessed flange on the centre access hole. Cut along that line with the MiniTool jigsaw and straighten edge with Perma-Grit block. The hinge for this hatch is quite a bit too long. Hacksaw off part. Remove pin and smooth ends. Chamfer the underside of the cowl for the curve of the hinge knuckle, likewise the straight edge of the hatch cover. Check fit, holding hinge in place from underneath. Looks OK. Seems to be threatening rain so stop work and return cowl to trailer. Replace other stuff in trailer and close up. Bring tools and small parts back to garage. Note that the flat bases of the Hartwell latches will need to be supported on a small pad of epoxy/flox to allow for the curvature of the hatch covers. Also wonder if there might be enough room for a thin piece of stainless steel where the latches bear against the inner face of the cowl, to protect the glass-fibre from wear.	3762.8
30	As there is rain forecast for much of tomorrow, open trailer & take upper cowl in to garage. Close up trailer. Work for a short time on the tailplane pip-pin holes on the starboard side with round files, to enlarge the holes to oval shape in accordance with Factory Mod 73. Quite slow going!	3763.1
31	Mark the edge of the flange of each cowl access hole onto the inner face of each hatch cover with felt-tip pen, to help with positioning of Hartwell latches. On the cowl half of the hinge for the starboard hatch, centre-pop in 2 places and drill through 3.2mm. Open to 3.3mm to admit TLPK424BS rivets. Clamp hinge half to edge of hole in cowl and drill through holes 3.3mm. Similarly centre-pop and drill other half of hinge. Consider required assembly sequence; it will be easier to cut the hole for the latch before riveting the hatch cover to the hinge, but the holes in the hatch cover will need to be drilled after the other half of the hinge is riveted in place. The bonding of the flox pad to support the latch will have to be done after the cover is riveted to the hinge. Clamp the latch to the inner face of the cover and drill through its 4 mounting holes 2.5mm for TLPK33BS rivets, putting a rivet in each hole after drilling to maintain alignment. Mark out the outline of the hole for the latch on the inner face of the cover by transferring measurements of the latch itself, using the holes as reference. Drill a pilot hole and cut out the hole for the latch with the MiniTool jigsaw. Straighten edges with file. Temporarily assemble the latch to the cover with 8BA screws (no suitable M2.5 in stock!) to check clearance for latch operation. All seems OK. Offer up cover to cowl hole and note that the latch is rather tight on the mating flange so will need to be spaced away slightly with the flox pad.	3764.9

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