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Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2016 05

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3 Confirmation received from LAS Aerospace that the 30A breaker has been added to my outstanding order. Search online for stainless steel Binx nuts and order a few M8 Binx and Aerotight from Stainless Parts. Send e-mails to Alan Twigg & Neville Eyre reminding each that they promised to send me copies of the baffle templates.
5 Terminal boots & sleeving received from Electrical Car Services, and stainless steel Aerotight and Binx nuts received from Stainless Parts. Add Aerotight nut to bag with M8 drilled bolt, and store the other nuts. The terminal boots look as though they will fit the smaller screw terminals, but not the big ones on the battery isolator. Start to set up to check prop flange alignment, but find that the battery in the digital level has died and I haven't a spare. 2556.8
6 An envelope arrives with the cowl baffle outlines on a long sheet of brown paper, but no indication who it's from. Fit new battery to digital level and carry out full calibration procedure (4 positions horizontal, 4 vertical). Check transverse level with levelling jig in place between headrests, and wedge up starboard dolly wheels slightly to achieve level. Fore-and-aft fuselage angle is 6.9 degrees and prop flange is 83.9 degrees, so bottom of mount needs to be shimmed out to bring that to 83.1 degrees. Mark centre line and points at 20" out from that on aluminium angle. Clamp it to lower edge of prop flange - has to be low since 40" width on firewall is only available low down near firewall shelf. Set the angle level then measure from the 20" marked points to the firewall each side. Starboard 820mm, port 845mm, a difference of 25mm, only 1mm less than the required 26mm. To work out how many washers might be needed, measure distance between mount bolts. Bottom bolts are 195mm apart, top bolts 240mm apart. Distance between line of top and bottom bolts is 265mm. AN960-516L washers measure between 0.778mm & 0.775mm. 2557.9
7 To achieve a change of 1mm across the 40" (1016mm) test length requires a change of 195/1016 = 0.19mm across the bottom bolts and 240/1016 = 0.24mm across the top bolts. This is much too small to be corrected by a unit change in the number of AN960-516L washers which are 0.778mm to 0.775mm. So we will have to accept the sidethrust angle as it stands - after all it's only 0.056 degrees or 3.4 minutes of arc out! The change of vertical angle needed is 0.8 degrees, which equates to 3.7mm over the distance of 265mm between top and bottom bolts. That is equivalent to 4.76 washer thicknesses, so 5 should be used as the nearest integer value. That will allow for a slight future sag in the rubber mounts. Another envelope arrives with cowl baffle templates, this time from Alan Twigg. Roll fuselage out onto drive. Check tacho lead connectors and remove the inserts from the plastic housing so the leads will pass through the firewall penetration device. Store plastic housing with the other Rotax connector parts. Swing fuselage round to get it laterally level. Bring out the engine crane and support engine with it using rope sling as before. Slacken castle nuts on lower AN5-40 bolts and push bolts aft until flush with landing gear frame. Raise engine crane slightly to tilt engine enough to allow placing washers on the bolts. Fit 5 AN960-516L washers on port bolt, re-fit cup washer and push bolt forward enough to retain everything. Crane seems to have sagged slightly so pump it up a bit more to get good access to starboard side and repeat the process. Lower crane to let engine weight compress the rubbers a bit, fit forward cup washers and nuts - there is only just enough bolt thread protruding to get the nuts started. Do up nuts fully against internal spacers and check that the split-pins can be inserted and will hold. Fuselage fore-and-aft angle now 9.8 degrees and prop flange angle 80.2 degrees so that is perfect! Remove upper castle nuts and fit 4 washers on each bolt, then do up nuts fully and check that split pins are OK. Look at possible options for fuel return line. Plenty of room forward of battery, although some space inboard will be needed for the oil tank support strap. Hose could come straight down to the union if positioned as far inboard as possible. That suggests the AN833-4D right-angle elbow would be appropriate as that would keep the pipe well up out of the way of feet, and there would be room to make a bend for the pipe routing along the fuselage side. The pipe could probably go above the conduit, which would keep things tidy at the seatback junction, although the bend at the aft end to reach the tank fitting might be a bit tricky. Back at the vent pipe, of the remaining unions in stock, I'd originally thought of using the AN837-4D 45 degree elbow for the baggage shelf penetration, but the AN832-4D straight union might be OK instead. Will also have to look again at pipe routing underneath the baggage shelf. Note that a now-surplus AN838-4D adaptor could be cut down to make the vent pipe termination, although not sure yet how much should be removed. Thinking about the conduit & pipe runs, look again at where the NACA vent could go. There might just be room for it above the conduit, but if the eyeball vents were fitted close to the outlet, they might conflict with knees. Will have to check with cushions in place. Rain starting so quickly pull fuselage back into garage and put engine crane away. Order some Loctite 221 as recommended by Kevin Dilks for the propeller brush bracket bolts from Sil-Mid Limited. Search for webbing and buckles and order some webbing and metal buckles from a couple of eBay sellers. 2561.4
9 To spread the load from the retaining strap, and provide a decent amount of depth for countersunk screw heads, decide to embed a piece of wood in the base of the battery box layup. Find a piece of reclaimed mahogany door-sill wide enough to use (about 100mm x 170mm) and bandsaw off a length of about 190mm. Cut off the nose edge with the drip groove. Bandsaw blade not cutting well so remove it and fit a new 3/8" x 4TPI blade. Do a vertical cut to remove the thicker part and check that the new blade is set up OK - no problems. Cut off the butt end with the groove and then finally another vertical cut to get a short plank about 11mm thick. Plane the faces to remove saw marks and varnish. Plane the long edges. Cut ends off square to 170mm length. Look for some blue foam to make a sacrificial male mould for the battery box layup. Find that there is more than enough spare at the end of the block marked out for the seatpan pieces. Check the squareness of the hot-wire cutter wire; it's fine at right angles to the bow, but in the plane of the bow the top wire support is further forward than the bottom one. The table slot is not wide enough to allow correction by shifting the bottom wire loop forwards, so for now will make the cuts in the plane of the bow where the wire is at right angles to the bed. Cut off about 120mm from the end of the block. Decide that while the cutter is set up I may as well slice off the pieces for the seatpan too. Decide to cut slightly thicker slices than those marked out, to allow maximum flexibility for shaping later. Also slice the wedge-shaped piece to the same thickness of about 64mm. Checking again the battery base size, it is actually 92mm x 150mm, tapering to 164mm over the bottom 30mm of height. Decide that the battery box should be 50mm deep. Cut a 50mm slice from the offcut block and cut thin slices off 2 other faces to square them up. Cut to 92mm across. The table is not wide enough to do the 164mm cut fore-and-aft so dismantle bow and bend it slightly to correct the end misalignment, gripping it with the angled jaws in the vise. Re-assemble and set wire at right angles to bed in both planes. Set fence across bed and cut block to 164mm long. Mark the 7mm x 30mm taper on 2 edges of the block and tilt the bow until the wire lines up with that line. Adjust fence to align wire with marked line. Cut chamfer on first end of block - the cut goes right through the marked line at both sides, which is very pleasing! Chamfer second end of block. Smooth and round all bottom and side edges slightly with a fine Perma-Grit block. Chamfer the ends of the wooden base on the bandsaw to match the foam block, and trim it to 92mm width. Start to think about how to support the foam block during the layup - probably a couple of 6-inch nails driven through a plank, like for the chock exercise at the factory builders weekend, would be OK. 2565.2
10 Firewall pass-through kit and 30A breaker delivered from LAS Aerospace, and webbing strap from the eBay seller. Loctite 221 delivered from Sil-Mid Limited. Try securing one of the small high-brightness LEDs into its bezel with Evo-Stik Control Epoxy which seems to be suitably slow-curing to allow assembly of a batch. Wipe a small amount around the inside of the bezel with a piece of wire as a spreader, and on the outside of the LED from the flange backwards, before inserting. Leave to cure supported nose-down in core of solder reel on boiler cupboard shelf. Fit new 30A breaker to battery isolator assembly. Try the fit of electrical items on the firewall and start to mark proposed positions with a felt-tip pen. Not sure where the coolant overflow bottle will go. 2565.7
11 Metal buckles for 25mm webbing straps delivered from the eBay seller. Have a look at the LED epoxied into the bezel. Some epoxy has oozed slightly forward around the LED but not far enough to affect the viewing angle, as proven by a side-by-side comparison on the 12V battery with another one just pushed into the bezel. Mix a batch of the Evo-Stik Control Epoxy and for each of 7 LEDs, spread it around the flange of the LED and between the lead-outs, then push the LED into the bezel. Leave them to cure supported nose-down in the solder reel on the boiler cupboard shelf. Try the polypropylene webbing strap in the metal buckle. It's just possible with considerable effort to get 2 thicknesses of the strap through the clamping gap, but that is probably not a good idea. I should be able to get the local cobbler to sew a loop of strap around the buckle, leaving just one end free to clamp on. Thinking more about the location of the coolant overflow bottle, there is room for it outboard of the battery, but that is where the instrument module is flush against the firewall so fixing would be awkward. However, it looks as though the battery could move far enough outboard to make room for the bottle on its inboard side, where there would space aft of the firewall for fixings. Measure the maximum dimensions of the various baffle templates on Neville's brown paper sheet: port forward 480mm x 375mm; port aft 225mm x 350mm; starboard forward 440mm x 360mm; starboard aft 235mm x 335mm; duct side 755mm x 230mm.
12 The epoxy on the LED bezels has cured satisfactorily but on a few the epoxy has crept down onto the threads. Manage to scrape it off all but one with a fine pick. On the last one, the epoxy has actually run down as far as the nut and it won't turn. Eventually manage to get it off by heating the bezel with one of the Redux-curing power resistors; that softens the epoxy enough to remove the nut and the remaining epoxy can be scraped off with the pick and a scalpel. Consider that once the terminations have been made to the blade or other connectors on the extended LED leads, it won't be possible to remove the LEDs again without chopping the leads (because the fixing holes are too small to admit a connector), so will need to be sure they won't have to come out again before terminating the leads. Open the trailer and compare the 5th shape on Neville's baffle drawings with the pieces supplied by Europa. The drawing matches the folded edges of the duct side pieces CD2 & CD3 (but extends a bit further) and has a considerably extended profile along the other side. The bits of aluminium I got from Barry Tennant will not be big enough to make those extensions in one piece. While the trailer is open, take out the upper cowl and try it for fit over the proposed battery location, outboard of the overflow bottle. No problem, plenty of room.
13 Send e-mail to Barry Tennant asking if he can still supply some 6061 aluminium sheet and giving overall sizes of pieces needed for baffles and duct sides.
14 Send e-mail to Neville Eyre with questions about the baffles for his cowl, and if he can quote a price for making them. He replies saying he should be able to name a price soon. He says the baffles need only be supported at the extreme forward & rear ends and that the outer edges can just rest on the cowls; some people have put rubber along the edges. Dig out some M6 lockwashers and fit the 8-off LEDs in bezels to the main instrument panel with the lockwashers.
15 Post questions to Matronics e-mail list on coolant overflow bottle and coolant temperature monitoring. Looking at pictures of other engine installations, wonder if I need to make space on the firewall for the fuel pressure sensor or if it could be mounted somewhere else. Probably best not connected to the engine mount as the vibration might not do it any good. Somewhere near the fuel return connection might be OK.
16 Realise that the (3-core screened) cable for the fuel pressure sensor has not been included in the firewall penetration list, but there should be plenty of room for it. Cut off about 36mm of the 38mm x 38mm x 3mm aluminium angle and square up the ends with a file. Mark centrally 15mm in from one edge and drill to 16mm with step drill. Deburr and check fit of fuel pressure sender. Mark 7.5mm in from corners of other flange & drill to 5mm. Place angle with sender on starboard footwell to consider location and pipe run to union through firewall. Ideally there should be a right-angle bend on both upper & lower sides of top of footwell! 2567.5
17 Reply posted to coolant temperature monitoring query on Matronics e-mail list, pointing to Skydrive T-piece for pipe and spare VDO sensor. Order one of each from Skydrive. Check how tightly the 100-04 size stainless steel braided hose can be bent - not very small radius possible. To connect a horizontal fitting to a vertical one in the width of the footwell might be possible but would need a ridiculously large 270-degree loop. So, will have to use a AN833-4D elbow to get a straight hose run from the fuel pressure sender. I suppose it would be possible to use solid aluminium pipe for that short run as both ends will be supported. However, the restrictor won't fit in the bore of the aluminium pipe. Check size of hole in the FS02 restrictor - #71 drill (~ 0.65mm), so I could make a new one to fit the aluminium pipe if necessary. With the inside end of the AN elbow fitting pointing straight down, the aluminium pipe on the inside of the footwell will need to be kept out of the way of feet by bending as sharply as possible and keeping well towards the side. Get out the 2m length of 100-04 stainless steel braided nitrile hose (3/16" ID, 7/16" OD) and try to tidy up the cut end by various methods, none of which are any better than the supplied cut end! The finest hacksaw blade I have is no use as it immediately frays the strands of braid. The cutting wheel on the angle-grinder is much better but creates a lot of heat and smoke. The large cut-off wheel on the Dremel is better, but the best seems to be the small-diameter heavy-duty Dremel cut-off wheel. The thinner cut-off wheel seems to give a clean cut of the braid, but wears down extremely quickly. Unwrap the masking tape from the hose and grip it horizontally in the angled magnetic vise jaws from Speedflow. Oil both the hose and the socket and offer the socket up to the hose at a slight angle, persuading most of the frayed ends into the socket with a piercer as I square up the socket. Rotating the socket with a 5/8" ring spanner while I push gets it onto the hose without too much drama. Apply masking tape around the hose to monitor the engagement with the socket. Hold socket vertically in the angle of the vise jaws. Oil the hose and the nipple and push nipple into hose until the threads engage while watching that the hose does not move out of the socket. Tighten nipple down onto socket with aluminium spanner. Needs a lot of force and the jaws are starting to tilt because the grip is near the top edge, so change to holding the socket in the horizontal vee and finish tightening. The working faces of the aluminium spanner show signs of distress by the time I've achieved the required thumbnail clearance between nipple and socket - I will have to use a steel 9/16" ring spanner in future. Thinking about the means of holding the coolant overflow bottle, the aluminium strap I was hoping to use is problematic because the outboard end would be in the region of the flat part of the instrument module. I'd really prefer not to have any fixings there. Make a flare on the end of a piece of 1/4" OD aluminium pipe and bend it through a right angle as close to the end as possible. When connected to the straight end of the AN833-4D elbow it projects about 95mm beyond the bulkhead plane. Start to prepare for vent line from top of filler neck. Drill a 7/16" hole in brown foam area near starboard edge of baggage shelf, directly below aft face of filler neck, then realise that is too near the flap cross-tube. Will have to fill the hole again. Drill again further aft, approximately in line with the forward end of the support rib. Fit AN837-4D elbow from underneath and temporarily do up AN924-4D nut by hand. Looking at the fitting poking up through the baggage shelf, it seems rather vulnerable, and wonder how I might protect it from damage by heavy baggage either shifting in flight or being thrown in. Will leave that problem to the subconscious for the moment. On the lathe, make a mandrel for allowing bends closer to the pipe end, similar to the previous aluminium one for 3/8" pipe but this time from steel and to fit the 1/4" pipe. Make a flare on the end of the 3' length of 1/4" pipe. Fit a sleeve and using the new mandrel bend about 45 degrees as close to the flared end as possible. Bend in the opposite direction about 45 degrees, but in a slightly different plane, to bring the pipe up the fuselage side towards the bottom of the filler neck. Offer up and bend by hand to align with aft face of filler neck. Curve gently to follow fuselage side then bend top end in to allow offering up again. Do up nut on bottom elbow hand-tight. Bend top end to align with fitting, remove again and cut slightly longer than needed. Re-fit to bottom elbow and tweak alignment until satisfied, then mark exact cutting point in line with male end of top fitting. Cut at marked point, deburr and fit 2nd nut and sleeve, then flare that end. Fit it again and nuts do up easily at both ends, with pipe run looking pretty satisfactory. 2571.7
18 Barry Tennant replies with costs for a sheet of 6061 aluminium cut into 6 (better than LAS Aerospace price). Ask for quotes from the 2 UK suppliers he suggests, and also from Aircraft Materials.
19 Tee-piece and sensor delivered from Skydrive. The VDO sender (M10 x 1.5mm thread, marked 801/10/1, max 150C, 1.15, 6-24V) is quite a slack fit in the threads in the tee-piece. Phone Skydrive to check best method of sealing threads. Nigel says I should have ordered the aluminium ring terminal which provides the earth connexion for the sender and also seals it to the tee-piece when tightened down. He says he'll send me one FoC and also that it's a good idea to put Loctite 243 on the threads.
20 Aluminium ring terminal received from Skydrive. Thinking more about restraining the overflow bottle, I could lay up a patch of a few layers of BID on the firewall with the tie-wraps trapped under it. The tie-wraps could be encased in polyethylene to allow replacement, and to keep the bottle vertical, a couple of tie-wrap offcuts could be incorporated into the layup lower down to give the same stand-off bottom and top.
21 Melt each end of a 2m length of the webbing strap slightly in a flame to stop it fraying and loop each end though one of the metal buckles. With about 50mm on the free end, pin together to show the desired overlap and take to the Cobblers Corner for sewing. When collected about half an hour later he has ignored my intentions and folded the strap in on itself again. That would not be a problem if the same length was left for sewing but there's now about 25mm and he has only done a rectangle and diagonal line of stitching - I wanted about 6 lines but obviously didn't make that clear enough. Don't want to delay any longer so take it anyway and he says no charge. When I get it home, pull at a loose thread and it starts to unravel - not very good! Will have to try another place. Hook up the MGL Stratomaster Infinity E-3 to a 12V battery and go through the setup menus to check how to do the Rotax 912 configuration. Seems straightforward enough. Connect the VDO sender from Skydrive to see if it displays a sensible value and it shows something like room temperature on 1 CHT of the readings. Connect a LED to the external alarm lead and it is obviously not tied to the one on the instrument; it goes out earlier on startup, and does not appear to be cancelled by pressing the knob. Disconnect the E-3 and hook up the TP-1. Initially both lines of display "check sender". However, when the VDO sender is connected to orange (pin 2), the pressure display shows a value and when it's connected to green (pin 3) the temperature display shows a value (similar number to the E-3). It appears that the orange wire and the green wire are transposed in their functions. Check connexions to the D-sub plug - they match the documentation. Send e-mail to MGL raising the issue.
23 Thinking about making new rudder pedal shaft bearings, and looking for boring head or a 3/4" slot drill to bore the holes, find that Arc Euro Trade list a 3/4" indexable end mill with a MT2 shank. That would solve the problem of how to hold a bigger cutter, as my ER25 collets only go up to 16mm. As it's not suitable for cutting a blind hole (and I wouldn't want to load the mill with such a big cut in any case) the holes could be made initially with smaller slot drills - the biggest I have in stock is 12mm, which appears to be the largest commonly available anyway. That final cut would then be under 3.6mm wide at under 9.6mm radius which sounds quite reasonable in SRBF. Place an order with Arc Euro Trade for the 3/4" indexable end mill. Start to plan the machining schedule for the SRBF.
24 Order a 3/16" slot drill and a length of 3/16" silver steel from GLR Kennions Ltd, for boring and aligning the rudder pedal bearing block bolt holes.
25 MT2 x 3/4" indexable end mill delivered from Arc Euro Trade, and 3/16" silver steel and slot drill from GLR Kennions Ltd.
26 Find an offcut of SRBF about 55mm x 40mm x ~8mm. Fit a 10mm end mill in the 10-9 ER25 collet. Hold the workpiece vertically in the milling vise with the long edge horizontal. True up first edge with end of milling cutter along X axis, turn workpiece over and true up 2nd edge. Turn workpiece horizontal, support on 5/8" wavy parallels, with short ends protruding beyond vise jaws. True up both ends with side of milling cutter along Y axis. Mark a centre line on the long axis and cut into 2 pieces with hacksaw (kerf about 1.5mm). Clamp together on 1/2" wavy parallels with sawn edges up. Mill along X axis of top until both pieces same height. The 3/16" slot drill from GLR Kennions Ltd is 1/4" shank and the cutting length only about 14mm so will not go through the intended workpiece; have a look around and find that Tracy Tools offer one that appears to be parallel-shank. Order a long-series version of that.
28 3/16" slot drill delivered from Tracy Tools. Alas, the shank is 1/4" and the cutting length is only 18mm so it looks as though I'll have to use an ordinary drill bit to make the bolt holes in the SRBF blocks after all.
30 The 2 pieces of SRBF are 16.8mm thick when clamped together, so 8.4mm each. Find back face and left with cigarette paper between 3/16" (4.8mm) drill and workpiece. Half-way across the first piece in Y axis from the datum is 4.2mm + 2.4mm = 6.6mm = 3 turns + 24 div. Half-way across the second piece from datum is 12.6mm + 2.4mm = 15.0mm = 7 turns + 40 div. Workpiece length is 54mm, holes can be about 7mm in from each end. From datum to 1st hole on X axis is 7mm + 2.4mm = 9.4mm = 4 turns + 56 div. From datum to 2nd hole is (54-7) + 2.4 = 49.4mm = 24 turns + 56 div. Drill the 4 holes on those co-ordinates. Find that lever feed is better with the drill than fine feed which seems to be too slow and causes swarf buildup in hole. Mark across one end for alignment. Try the piece of 3/16" silver steel in the holes - very tight. Run 3/16" slot drill through by hand - somewhat better though still a firm fit. Cut 2 off 30mm lengths from the silver steel and deburr ends. Press SRBF pieces together with dowels inserted. The alignment of the faces is better one way than the other - hole centring not quite right. Width of both pieces together is 35.6mm. Clamp horizontal in milling vise with 3/4" wavy parallels underneath to get 1/8" of workpiece above jaws for edge finding. Fit 12mm slot drill in 12-11 collet and find back edge. Y axis distance in from datum = 35.6/2 + 12/2 = 23.8mm = 11 turns + 72 div. Wind in to that setting and wind X axis across to approximate centre of workpiece. Run 12mm slot drill through. Raise mill head, extract ER25 collet chuck and replace with MT2 x 3/4" indexable end mill. Lower head and feed mill through hole. Remove and deburr bottom of hole. Try on port rudder pedal shaft bearing area - slightly loose. Check the test piece against one of the removed bearing blocks and the difference in size can just be felt.
31 Fit green grit silicon carbide wheel to bench spindle. Grind off outer faces of carbide inserts on MT2 3/4" milling cutter, checking visually with remaining size of corner facets that equal amounts are taken off each side. Do a quick test on a single offcut of 0.2" SRBF, slot drilling 12mm and then the 3/4" end mill. Try the fit of that on the free end of the rudder pedal shaft and it feels OK. Inspect inserts again and grind back slightly more to improve clearance. Find an offcut of 1" thick SRBF and cut off a piece about 1" x 2.25" on bandsaw. True up long cut faces using 3/4" end mill along X axis. Set upright and true end faces. Mark the longitudinal centre line and cut into 2 pieces on bandsaw. Hold them together in the milling vise and true up the sawn faces to bring them to same dimension, resulting in 2 pieces 58.2mm x 22.8mm x ~11.3mm. Fit 3/16" drill bit in mill, find faces at back and LH end. Feed X axis 5 turns from datum. From Y axis datum 1st hole is 5.65mm + 2.38mm = 4 turns + 1 div. 2nd hole is 19.33 forward of datum or 9 turns + 53 div. Drill 2 holes at those co-ordinates. Traverse X axis to 28 turns from datum and drill 2 more holes at same Y settings. Mark for orientation. Try 3/16 silver steel dowels but they are too tight to go in with hand pressure. Run through in turn a 4.8mm, #12 and #11 drill bits before the dowels will go in without force. Again, alignment of faces is better one way round than the other. Clamp together in milling vise. Fit 12mm slot drill and find back edge. Advance Y axis 22.8mm + 6mm = 28.8mm = 14 turns + 32 div. Traverse X axis to approximate centre and bore hole with slot drill. Lift mill head, change to MT2 3/4" end mill and lower head. Bore hole out. Remove, deburr, try for fit on shaft - still a bit slack! Try it also on the free end and it's a bit tight there, so obviously that is not a reliable place to test. Check ID of latest test with vernier caliper - 19.32mm. First test measures 19.82mm ID so the reduction in diameter was significant. The bearing surface on the rudder pedal shaft measures 19.32mm OD so we can't be very far off. I think we need to grind a tiny bit more off the inserts and do another test before committing to the actual workpieces. Will also need to get the bolt holes more accurately centred within the thickness.

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