||Turn up FL9 insertion tool from steel offcuts and piece of studding (not timed). Fit FL9s to W21s and OR5s. Trial assemble flap hinge supports W19, W20, W21 to FL1, FL2, FL3. Will definitely need to trim flap tip closeout to move flap outboard. Also need to trim flap TE, tapering from about 3mm at root to 0 at tip.
||Check flap location. Need to move about 9 or 10mm outboard to line up with hinges. Mark up line on tip to take off about 12mm (ie leaving about 3mm clearance). Cut off with hacksaw and file smooth. Looks good on trial positioning. Hot-glue some 3mm ply offcuts to vertical face of wing TE closeout for flap spacing. Mark up flap TE with taper from 3.5mm at root to zero at tip and file off. Trial assemble and all looks good. Swap W20 to inboard side of FL2 for better alignment. Not sure about tip position - looks like I need to remove some of wing TE flange to get flap lower surface flush to wing lower surface. Take masking tape off W18s and clean up resin weeps, taking extreme care to avoid scratching W18s.
||Phone factory re flap alignment and weights for top skin attachment. Roger says OK to cut curved part of wing TE away from vertical face attached to rib at BL96, thus letting flap go down (in present orientation) so flap and wing undersurfaces align better. He thinks the lead weights were about 5kg. Measure up trailer ramp hinge area, do some calculations, and draw up first thoughts on gas-spring attachment.
||Adjust flap position by cutting & filing wing TE flange at flap tip. Stick in place with polyester filler paste. Chamfer W19, W20, W21 edges to clear resin corners at W18/wing surface junction. Clamp up W19, W20, W21 with toolmakers clamps and drill using Harry's flexible drive. Not too bad with first small drill (#40) but drive tends to corkscrew on breakout with 3/16" bit. Return flex drive to Harry at Gloster Strut. John Bean tells me has a similar but rigid right-angle drive so maybe I will try that next time.
||Vacuum up swarf; accidentally suck up 2 off AN3-5A bolts that were loose in W18/W21 so open vacuum bag to find, with difficulty. Support root end of wing on foam block and crack off template. Flap movement looks good. Remove W18/W21 bolts and mark up W18 for filing to clear AN525-10R32 screws and nuts. File, check and file again until clearance satisfactory. Assemble OR1/OR4 and file OR4 for latching. Assemble OR5 etc. Some holes need cleaning out for bolts or screws as they have been water-jet cut, leaving a tiny nib. Final assembly to W21, W18 and flap works OK. Check fit of OR2 - goes in nice and firm but not impossible to pull out.
||Dismantle flap hinges and store fasteners etc again. Hang up flap. Start to de-burr parts and lightly countersink holes, etc. Phone David Schofield but he's away on holiday. Phone Roger Huttlestone re ramp spring brackets. He agrees they need careful attachment because of large forces. I will bring the drawings to him once I've got more info from David Schofield's gas spring man. Start to consider how to clamp W19 etc for filing edges. FL1, 2, 3 used the hole in the FL9 bushes so the clamping screw is too big for the 3/16" holes in the present parts. Think about modifying clamp to suit.
||Modify flap-hinge filing clamp to allow use with W19, W20, W21. File edges of W19 & W20 to a taper & deburr. Deburr OR5 and polish. Polish OR4. Start to taper-file edges of W21.
||Finish filing edges of W21. Smooth all 6 pieces (W19, W20, 2 off W21, OR4, OR5) on ScotchBrite wheel. Degrease in acetone. Try Halfords grey zinc primer on OR4, but it comes out badly mottled so clean off and and spray them all with zinc chromate primer.
||Get grease nipples for outrigger pivot mod from APD Regent Components & pick up some special offer leaflets.
||Clean up the notches on the outboard W18s, and the visible part of the factory-fitted root W18. Mask off wing underside and spray W18s with zinc chromate primer. Second-coat W19 etc with zinc chromate, then give W18s another coat.
||Re-assemble flap and hardware to check angles (should have done that first time around). Make sure wing is well wedged to prevent tilting chordwise. SmartTool gives readings of -7.5 degrees retracted, +16.0 when outrigger latches and +21.6 fully extended. Subtracting offset gives latched at 23.5 (spec is by 25) and fully extended 29.1 (spec 27). Get out outrigger wheel & fork and start assembly, greasing wheel bearing.
||Fit OR2/2 to OR1 and drill. Try to fit OR3 but won't go on. Try various methods of persuasion but eventually resort to filing with millenicut file and smoothing circular again with emery cloth wrapped around. Assemble, align and drill. Fit screw and final locknut. Leave upper end with pre-assembly nut for the moment. Photograph flap and
File the W16 mounting hole in the starboard spar to get it square. Wax the alignment tool made on 2003 06 23. Mix 1 stroke epoxy and add flox to line the spar hole. Insert the alignment tool and clamp up lightly to cure.
||Dismantle starboard flap and aileron. Take out W16 bolt alignment tool & clean up excess flox. Turn wing over to right-way -up. Re-fit aileron. Fit lateral pushrod and W16. Cover stall warner template with magic tape and affix to LE. Practice inserting stall-warner tube. Find a short self-tapping screw to go in the outer end as a temporary protection against getting Redux inside, then abrade bonding areas & degrease. Mix 14gm Redux and apply. Had intended to secure protruding end to template with tape, but Redux prevents tape sticking so make a couple of holes in template and secure with a twist of wire. Check Skycraft website for part number of 4130 tubing for outrigger mod.
||Order 1 foot of 5/16" x 0.028" 4130 tube from Skycraft. Check with Roger at Europa that it's OK to fit W54 flush side out. Remove self-tapper from protruding end of stall-warner tube and cut off excess. File flush to LE. Chek with Ian Rickard about hole positions for cable duct etc. Drill holes in ribs for stall-warner plastic tubing, insert grommets and tube. Drill damages inside of bottom skin slightly when breaking through angled rib near root. Repair with a layer of BID and peel-ply. Flox root rib hole and tape up tube to keep angle correct. Trim W54 to fit, abrade all mating surfaces and bond in with Redux. Polish OR1 on fine ScotchBrite wheel and apply Mer polish.
||4130 tube arrives. Order engine crane at special-offer price from APD. Realise I should have ordered some washers for the outrigger mod from Skycraft too. Turn off heat; Redux surface still feels slightly tacky.
||Order FL11 washers and W18 plates (for tiedown mod) from Europa, together with extra AN970-3, TAPK33BS, AN960-516L, and MS21042-4. Photograph the
parts, build it and test it with turn and slip gyro. Works perfectly.
||Get M3 screws, nuts and shakeproof washers from Moorhouse Fasteners for mounting 12V-24V converter stripboard. Collect engine crane from APD, assemble & check. Fold and store in woodshed. FL11 etc order arrives from Europa.