Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2009 01

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tickMy new-year resolution for 2009 was to get something done on the aeroplane every weekday with the intention of completing the project during the year. Because of Wilma's illness after Christmas and sudden death on 2009-01-13, that resolve didn't last long into January. However, one thing that Wilma frequently told me was "Stop getting distracted - finish the aeroplane!", so from now on I will try to heed that voice. The aircraft registration mark is a conflation of our names and I'm deeply sorry that I've taken so long in building that she didn't live to see it fly.

day notes hours
1 Mark a new outline for the tank filler cutout, 20mm further away from the headrest base than the original, and cut out with the Minitool jigsaw. Mount a drum-shaped cutter in the Dremel tool and carve away part of the pipe-bending tool anvil to make room for a flared end and collar. Try it out on the bend already made and it works fine, except that some swarf I didn't clean off well enough mars the pipe slightly. Dress that out with emery paper. Consider that it would probably be a good idea to lubricate the bending tool and pipe anyway (as for flaring). Manually unwind the bend to about 90 degrees and try it out on the fuel selector. The flange can now be positioned about 120mm from the underside of the tunnel top, which will make the pipe nuts on the inlet elbows much more accessible. Mark out new positioning lines inside tunnel and a centre for the actuating lever hole. Drill through 3.5mm. The boss on the actuator is 30mm but the nearest grit-edged holesaw I have is 38mm. Considering that it may be useful to have some room for manoeuvre, drill through 38mm. Offer up actuator and find the lateral mounting tabs won't quite fit between the tunnel sides. File them down, leaving very thin edges on the outside of the holes. Position actuator and fascia, mark mounting holes with felt-tip pen through fascia holes. Drill holes 3.5mm and open to 4.8mm. Insert screws AN525-10R8 through fascia to check for correct location; need to ease one hole a little with a needle file. Fit fascia & actuator with plain 10-32 nuts on screws. Add control knob. Temporarily fit valve on full-length extension shaft and measure distance of valve flange from underside of tunnel top as 192mm. Desired distance is 120mm, so shaft must be shortened by 72mm. Mark it up and hacksaw off. Clean burrs off cut end carefully with Swiss files. Re-assemble and check position - looks fine. Temporarily fit the piece of pipe with the shorter bend to the outlet and it looks perfect - the straight run of pipe barely touching a straightedge held between the edges of the tunnel. Offer up a piece of aluminium channel to see if it could be used as a mounting for the valve, but the tunnel wall is a long way off orthogonal to the valve flange, so that's not practical. Will have to fabricate something in glass (and possibly plywood), which will be a lot lighter than an aluminium bracket, anyway. 1182.8
2 Measure width of tunnel at valve flange level (about 120mm below top); varies between 91mm & 94mm. 1182.9
3 Cut a piece of 3mm plywood 80mm x 94mm, trim and file to fit in tunnel at marked 120mm line. Position actuator boss and sight through to spot centre hole on ply. Pencil on a mark and re-position to check - looks OK. Cut hole 30mm to clear valve boss. Fit actuator and add extension shaft. Offer up ply to valve and mark holes. Drill 4.5mm with spur bit and then open up to take AN525-10R8 screws. Assemble everything and it all lines up and works. 1183.9

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