||Chuck out water pump bottle for wet sanding as it was found to be split. Replace with trigger pump spray (ex kitchen cleaner of some sort), which turns out better, and can be used for washing off sanding block as well as putting a film of water onto the surface being sanded. Apply a minimal dry guide coat to the starboard side of the rudder and continue wet sanding of areas where dimples still show, mostly near TE. Consider that I really should re-spray the whole side, and so work over most of the area to reduce the weight a bit, until thin patches start to show quite widely. What looks like a pinhole produces dark smears when sanded. It shines like metal in direct light, so must be a flake of ali or maybe even lead embedded in the gel-coat. Pick it out with a sharp point; will need to clean the crater out and fill it with a dot of gel-coat before spraying. Take rudder out of sanding jig. Grey sanding slurry has run under polyethylene masking on port side. Remove masking. Wash off slurry. Much of it resists the wet sponge and needs a rub over with the sanding block to really get rid of it. Moral seems to be that all painting should be done at once, before starting to sand. That will avoid problems with overspray on already-sanded surfaces. But even more important is to get the filled surface really flat before starting to paint, so that rubbing-down does not cause thin patches and touching-up is not needed. Think about how to hold rudder for sanding the ends. Some sort of clamp against the side of the table seems possible. Check size of tailplane (900mm chord, 125mm thick) as it would be good for the clamp to accommodate that too.