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Edit the main circuit diagram to show the 3 fuse blocks separately. The relatively noisy and high-current stuff (crowbar, start switch, strobes, fuel pump, prop controller, wing leveller & power socket) on one 10-way; instruments (tacho, BAT1, TP1, E3, RTC2, FF1, analogue fuel gauge & fuel pressure) on the 2nd 10-way; and radio/audio stuff (comm radio, intercom, GPS, SmartASS & Transponder) on the 6-way. That leaves 2 spare ways on the first fuseblock and one each on the other 2. Had been thinking that maybe it wasn't such a good idea to use a plastic box to mount the crowbar components, as it would be in the engine compartment and thus possibly exposed to a bit of heat at some time. But before getting around to looking for an alternative die-cast box, realise that there is no real need for the components to be inside anything - they would be fine mounted on a piece of bent aluminium. Likewise the fuses for the ammeter and the 30A main breaker could be similarly mounted. Then I could use panel-mounted fuseholders rather than the ones with wire tails - it would be good to get some of those with 1/4" blade connectors, though. Looking back at the wires coming in to the battery & alternator master switches, rather than the screw terminal strips, I could quite easily make up some insulated stud terminals, as I'd been thinking about for the busbar side of the switches. In fact it would be as easy to make a 3-way version as a 2-way, so the insulated post I ordered may turn out to be redundant anyway. |
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