Europa #435 G-RODO Build Journal - 2012 02

index sitemap advanced
search engine by freefind
tickgo to list of milestonestick Navigation & Acknowledgements
day notes hours
10 Before I can make some BID cable clips I need to make a small tent for curing the epoxy. Find a piece of melamine-faced chipboard that will span the cockpit to act as a base. Think about screwing chipboard uprights to the corners to support the plastic sheeting but realise that would not work well - awkward to store as well as inconvenient when working. Instead, find some redundant 20mm OD aluminium tube and 4 wooden blocks for bases. To go across the ends between the tubes, find some redundant 19" aluminium panel plates. Drill each block 20mm. Cut the tube into 4 equal lengths about 305mm. Clamp the blocks to the corners of the base. Drill, countersink & screw together. Turn right way up. Drop the tubes into the holes in the blocks. Mark and relieve the bottom plate flanges to clear the tubes. Clamp the plates against the tubes, drill 3/16" and secure with 5mm pop-rivets. Find a suitable offcut of polyethylene sheet and drape it over the assembly. Tape it at the ends and trim to just below the base. Didn't count the hours spent on that as productive, so now start the clock! Find a piece of 5mm brass rod to act as a former. Cut a couple of strips of BID about 500mm x 75mm and lay them as a double layer on plastic sheet. Find a couple of heavy pieces of melamine-faced chipboard to weigh down the layup each side of the rod. Try to pump some epoxy but the pump is seized! Take it out of the cupboard and tap the lever between the cylinders increasingly firmly with a mallet & copper drift until it starts to move. Just about possible to move it up again with an extension on the handle, and liquid comes out of both delivery pipes. Pump a few strokes to waste and it eases slightly. Put it back in the cupboard and with some difficulty pump 3 strokes. Mix and pour over the prepared BID. As the garage isn't warmed up (5C, 62% RH), the epoxy is rather viscous and slow to soak in, but eventually does. Apply a layer of peel-ply, then another sheet of plastic. Now put the whole thing on top of the 5mm rod, getting the BID strip as central as possible on the rod. Weigh down each side of the rod with the chipboard pieces. Put the mixing cup with the layup as a sample and erect the tent. Start the fan at thermostat 3 on half-heat. Will have to look more thoroughly at the resin pump - probably have to get another refurb kit. 28C, 19% RH inside the tent by bedtime. 1392.0
11 Epoxy seems to have at least partly cured to the "leather" state so remove chipboard weights to let the warm air get at the layup better.
12 Turn off fan heater in curing tent.
29 Take down curing tent, remove polyethylene sheet and peel off (with some effort) peel-ply from cable clip layup. Trim edges on bandsaw, then set fence to about 7mm and saw the layup into about 75 slices. Store in a plastic tub. Check fit of one on the trim servo cable and it seems just perfect. The flat parts could be shortened slightly to save weight and fit better into confined spaces if desired. 1392.4

left-arrowgo to previous page of journal listgo to list of narrative pages list go to next page of journalright-arrow
Return to Rowland's home page

This page last updated 2012-12-29. I try to make this page as accessible as possible, by adhering to HTML 4 standards. Valid HTML 4.01! Valid CSS!
I welcome comments on this website. However, because of the amount of spam it attracts, I no longer post a direct e-mail address on any page. Instead, please click here to contact me. You will have to confirm that you are human before the message will be sent on to me.