||Cut out and attach one of the hole patterns to the end of CS17 with Evostik. CS17A is quite a loose fit in CS17 so use a soft clamp to gently squeeze CS17 and so retain CS17A in position for drilling. Start with cordless drill, but can't easily apply enough pressure. Position CS17 on pillar drill table, with other end sticking out of the garage door, and a block of wood on the vise anvil for intermediate support. Finish drilling 1st hole with 3.2mm bit and find the rivet won't enter. Open up with 3.3mm bit and that is fine. Leave rivet in place and drill 2nd hole diametrically opposite. Insert 2nd rivet and drill 3rd & 4th holes at right angles to first pair. Complete drilling of remaining 4 holes, moving rivets to adjacent holes to keep everything aligned. The bit seems keen to wander so some holes are not as accurately positioned as I would like. Consider too late that maybe I should have used a new bit (or even tried to sharpen the one I used!). CS17A is now firmly stuck in CS17. Mark CS17 & CS17A orientation with felt-tip, then drill a 5/16" hole in a large piece of scrap steel sheet, attach it to CS17A and use it to pull it out of CS17, with gentle taps of the copper mallet all round. Remove paper template with acetone. Deburr all holes, clear swarf and test fit of CS17A again - it now goes in and out without much effort. Clean and degrease both parts. Apply Loctite 638, assemble and insert all rivets before pulling any. Haul the air compressor round from the car-port and get it going. Set all rivets with air riveter. Wind check nut to leave 16mm thread free, and apply a scrap of masking tape to keep it from rotating. Clear the rear fuselage bottom area of all the rest of the tools and rubbish, then check that it's safe to sit in that area without it tipping backwards off the dolly. Lying on fuselage floor, I can just reach the MW5 rod-end on the pitch torque tube and with some fiddling get the rear pitch pushrod screwed onto it. Check location of MW5 rod-end (box 5) and get one out, along with bolt, washers and temporary nut. Fit rod-end to TP9 flanges. Adjust nut on remaining CS17A to leave 16m thread free and screw it onto rod-end. Clear stuff around sticks to allow free movement and slide rear CS17A into CS17. Gravity holds it in place enough for test of movement. Fit port tailplane and mark for trimming parallel with fuselage moulding. Draw line joining marks on flange and trim with hacksaw blade in pad handle. Use offcut to mark lower flange then cut it off. Re-fit port tailplane and flange is nicely parallel to fuselage fairings although gap is maybe more than the 3mm called out. Not sure that the TP12 drive pins are going fully home yet. Tab fouling fuselage so remove tailplane, extend line of trimming onto tab and trim it to match. Fit tailplane again and set digital level on it with a spanwise spacer to keep it from tilting along chord. The range of movement is 2.6 degrees down to 16.9 degrees up with neutral (ie in line with fairing) at 0.3 degrees down. Neutral can be adjusted by changing the effective length of the pushrod, but the overall range of 19.5 degrees is not quite the 20 degrees required (14 up to 6 down). The movement is limited somewhere at the forward end. The bottoms of the sticks don't appear to hit hard stops so check in the spar space. The brackets of CS10 hit the rear face of CS08 (or the rear end of CS05) at the up (stick aft) limit and the forward pitch pushrods contact the inside of CS05 at the down (stick forward) limit. It's possible that actually sitting in the cockpit and applying full forward and aft stick might get a tiny bit more movement.
Pull fuselage out of garage enough for access and rig tailplanes. Mark trim line on starboard tailplane flange and tab, remove and cut with hacksaw blade in pad handle. Re-rig, gap looks very similar to port, about 4 to 5mm. Check parts for trim assembly. Get TS01, TS02, TS03 out of box 8 and AN486-2P, BC4W10 out of box 5. Can't find FL9 & FL14 in box 3, but on cross-checking with parts used table find that they have been moved to the small drawers. Also seem to be some parts not yet logged as used - will have to check back and fill in some blanks. When Dorothy returns, she reads the digital level on the tailplane while I move the stick. That shows 8.2 degrees down to 12.4 degrees up giving a total range of 20.6 degrees which slightly exceeds the required 20 degrees. Identify and pull out the various metric fittings needed for the trim assembly.
||Dorothy is not available to help with measuring the tailplane deflection, and the weather looks unpromising anyway, so leave cutting CS17 and attaching 2nd CS17A for now. for now. Draw up the trim setting template TST with dimensions from Annex A of the manual in CADintosh & print out. Look for some suitable sheet material to make the template from and find a large thick plastic sheet that was part of an advertising sign, which should be easy to machine. Cut off a short length of it and make a test hole using a 38mm holesaw in the milling machine. Check diameter and finish - all as good as one could hope. Drill 6mm holes through the plastic sheet and a thick piece of wood. Clamp both to the milling machine table with studs and tee-nuts. Lock the Y axis. Set the X axis to place the spindle near one end of the workpiece and lock the table. Drill right through with the 38mm holesaw on slow speed. Unlock the X axis, advance X by 109.2mm (which is 54 complete turns each of 2mm plus 48 divisions each of 0.025mm). The pilot drill of the holesaw arbour is 1/4" so no need to change bits for the 6.35mm hole. Drill that, being careful not to let the holesaw touch the workpiece this time. Unclamp and cut around edges to make it look something like the shape on the template. Remove sharp edges with a file.
Degrease TS03 bellcrank and FL9 bush with acetone, apply Loctite 638 and press together. Couldn't find the alignment tool I made for that job but of course it turns up shortly afterwards! Check fit of BC4W10 bearing in TS03 bellcrank. Seems to be fine as supplied, but put a tiny radius on the inside face of TS03 with a deburring tool anyway. Check for fit of AN486-2P fork against bearing. Needs very little removing. File a small radius and smooth it off with the Scotchbrite wheel. Find the tube of Duralac which has gone a bit hard but some squeezes out after a bit of persuasion. Find the extension handle for the 1-ton press and the rivet set. Double-check orientation, then coat the mating faces of bellcrank & bearing with Duralac. Dip a couple of rivets in Duralac and insert in diametrically-opposite holes. Squeeze them up with the press. Insert the remaining 4 rivets (should really have put them all in before squeezing any as some are a bit tight) and squeeze them all up. As previously, some heads are a bit less than perfect. Clean off surplus Duralac with white spirit. Get out TS01 & TS02 to do a trial assembly and find the labels on the original bags are reversed, but it's easy to see which is which and fig 4 on page 19-3 makes it clear that TS01 has the slot. Assemble the brackets, bellcrank, washers and spacers on the AN4-15A bolt with a plain nut and check how the TST template works. Because of TP9, can't get the bellcrank onto the fuselage centre-line as required while keeping TST vertical. Find a spare 1/4" x 28 hex screw about 2" long and re-assemble everything on that. The extra length allows the bellcrank to be centred and TST to remain vertical while staying clear of TP9. Check length of TS04A and it is supplied at the correct length of 28mm.
||Note in passing that the hole in the fuselage rear bulkhead called out for the pushrod TS05 between the bellcrank and the trim tabs has not been made, nor marked on the bulkhead. Will have to position and size it by trial & error.