| day |
notes |
hours |
| 2 |
Graham Singleton replies to both Jim & me attaching a sketch of the template he uses to get CS29 in the correct position with respect to the rudder hinge. |
|
| 10 |
Measure rudder hinge position with respect to starboard skin for CS29 alignment template. Draw up template in CADintosh and print out. |
|
| 13 |
Re-assemble all instruments onto gyro panel for Robin Morton's Gloster Strut talk on gyros. This time remember to weigh the complete assembly - 10 pounds. |
|
| 14 |
At Gloster Strut, collect right-angle drill adaptor, Nicopress go-nogo gauge & AN84-6D adaptors ordered from Aircraft Spruce via Jeremy Davey. The AN840-6D is too big to fit my gyro horizon, which surprises Robin as well as me. Ian Lang says he found a hydraulic supplier in the Stroud area had all sorts of useful adaptors and hoses etc. |
|
| 20 |
File down port aileron BID, now that it seems to have finally gone a bit harder. Stick CS29 alignment template to a piece of 1/4" ply with contact adhesive. Once set, start to trim ply to shape. |
646.7 |
| 27 |
Visit 2 hydraulic places - ATH in Stonehouse and JV in Stroud. First one identifies horizon gyro air supply threads as JIC 7/16", but doesn't have a one-piece adaptor to hose barb. Second one appears to be the one Ian Lang mentioned, and has one-piece adaptors in stock. They are heavy, the tapered nose will need cutting back to clear the filter gauze, and the hose tails are only 1/4" bore, but take 2 anyway, including o-rings for sealing, for 4 pounds. Do some more research on the JIC thread and find it is 7/16" x 20TPI, equivalent to 7/16" UNF or AN7. |
|
| 28 |
Set up one of the AN840-6D adaptors in the lathe and turn down the threaded end to 7/16" diameter, which is below the root of the thread except at the very tip, and leaves enough meat to cut a new thread. Set up to cut 20TPI thread (well, 19.84375 TPI to be exact as the Cowells gearset and 1mm leadscrew prevents exact value being achieved) and cut it in lowest back-gear speed. Low speed allows tool to be withdrawn at end of thread, making a nice tapered exit and also clearing the edge of the flange left when removing the original thread. Alas, when tried in the gyro hole, it is too tight a fit to engage fully - should have taken a few more cuts and left it slightly undersize. Obviously can't get it back in correct alignment for further thread-cutting once removed from the chuck - should have unscrewed the chuck instead for checking thread size! Check prices of 7/16" UNF dies - even cheapest are above 30.00 so forget that! In Light Aero catalogue find that AN807-4D would fit if its outboard threaded part was removed, so that is probably the best solution. It also looks as if the hose tail might be shorter, which would be good, although it is only for 1/4" bore hose. |
|
| 29 |
Check if Moorfield Fasteners have any thread dressing files or secondhand 7/16" UNF dies - no, but instead get a couple of steel nuts which I can slit and use as crude dies. They go onto my cut thread quite easily, so will need to be crushed a bit after slitting to reduce the thread diameter. |
|
| 30 |
Finish cutting CS29 setting template to size and try it out. Looks good, but now realise there is a problem with the cutout I've made in the rudder LE. Too much has been removed from the inboard side, and this will mean that the flox corner will not have proper connection to the skin. Should I put a BID patch on to extend it the necessary 4mm or so? Take all the bits, and the aileron horn stuff that I was concerned about, down to Martin Carolan for his opinion. He suggests the patch on the skin I was contemplating is unnecessary if I just make the flox corner deep enough to get the specified 1/4" engagement with the skin. It would be easiest to make the flox corner first against a stiff piece of card with parcel tape on it for release, where the internal BID layup will be. He also suggests strengthening the flox mixture with BID chopped to about 1/4' long. As for the aileron horn BID curing, he thinks it may just have been the change in ambient temperature that made a difference, or perhaps the resin cupboard was too cool (earlier I had turned down the thermostat slightly, thinking it was getting too near the maximum recommended storage temperature). Anyway, the samples are all OK now. |
647.6 |
go to previous page of journal 
go to list of narrative pages
